Another Radio Shack Z-Wave sale!

There's another consideration in choosing Z-Wave over UPB and that is the fact that UPB requires a neutral in the box and Z-Wave doesn't. I bought some UPB and then discovered I didn't have neutrals everywhere and had to return the UPB and go with Z-Wave. The white wire I thought was a neutral was nothing more than a loop down from the fixture.

This is true. Fortunately, my house should have them as I believe this is now part of electrical code (though I dont know that for certain), and my house was built recently ('07).
 
Here a couple more links to check out the detail a bit more good and bad points

FYI- I just bought $1000 worth of the switches and door locks at Radio Shack and have since found out that all of my upstairs wiring (done by electrician when house new in 2005)will not worth with the 3-ways. The wiring downstairs which I did myself this fall will work fine. Basically if your 3-way wiring circuit has 12/3 going from both switch boxes to the light fixture, you might be screwed. Hopefully and electrician can step in and prove me incorrect.

http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=5267.0

http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=4193.0
 
There's another consideration in choosing Z-Wave over UPB and that is the fact that UPB requires a neutral in the box and Z-Wave doesn't. I bought some UPB and then discovered I didn't have neutrals everywhere and had to return the UPB and go with Z-Wave. The white wire I thought was a neutral was nothing more than a loop down from the fixture.
This isn't a total deal killer... there are two options when there's no neutral...

1 is to rewire the hot/neutral so that they really are hot/neutral and use a fixture module at the fixture. In the case of outlets though, I typically just make them full-time power and send the neutral down the line. At the switch you put in a regular switch with nothing hooked up to the "Load" side - instead you send a virtual link to the module at the fixture which controls it.
2. is to use a fixture or outlet module - I don't know about the other brands, but Simply-Automated modules allow you to repurpose the hot/neutral running to the switch as a Slave switch and gain a bit of extra control. I had to do this on one of my circuits but I looked into the product line and there's a solution to about any problem.
 
I have a Centralite LiteJet 24, some JetStream, and some X10 Pro in my home. I run HomeSeer Pro, so mixing the technologies is seamless. I ordered some of the Radio Shack Z-Wave stuff last night, but am wondering whether I'll have problems with not having enough switches for a reliable mesh. What is the minimum amount of Z-Wave items (dimmer switches, lamp and appliance modules, and duplex outlets) to make it reliable? My home is one-and-one-half story with about 2600 sq ft down and 1100 sq ft up.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
I think it all depends on how close the Z-Wave switches will be to each other and the Z-Wave interface.
 
I think it all depends on how close the Z-Wave switches will be to each other and the Z-Wave interface.
How close do they need to be? I have all my A/V equipment, servers, automation, M1, etc. in an air-conditioned closet on the first floor in the middle of the house. That's where the interface would be. There will be a couple of items on the first floor (50' max) and a few on the second (65'). Some of the items I ordered are the outdoor modules for Christmas lighting (currently using X10Pro there). I could leave those modules plugged in all year if that would help.

What do you think?

Kevin
 
I 'think' Z-Wave is limited to 60 feet based on conversations I had with various vendors at CES. But, I am no expert as I don't use this technology (only report on it) ;)
 
Your distances might be a bit much, but with swabs, you could fix that with a few strategically placed devices that can beam.
 
So basically, if it's not reliable, I can just place another device to shorten the distance? Since this is not PLC, are the distances straight-line?
 
The answer to your question is yes - if you have a device you are having issues communicating with add another device between the controller and the device - the Z-Wave technology builds a Mesh Network - the more devices the better the Mesh - started with 9 devices in a 3300 sq ft concrete block / stucco house 6 years ago - now have over a 100 devices - most Manufacturers talk about 75 ft to 125 ft distance more with no obstructions - the environment where you are installing the devices is always a factor just like all the other technologies B)
 
Thanks. That sounds good. Easy enough to add another device if coverage is spotty. I would assume that the lamp modules and duplex receptacles add to the mesh?

InToZ-Wave, see you're in Clearwater. I'm about a 100 miles south of you on the Cape Haze Peninsula. Cold enough for you?

Kevin
 
I would assume that the lamp modules and duplex receptacles add to the mesh?
Kevin

For the most part, yes. I think there may be some older wall switches that don't do the "beaming" to neighboring devices (which facilitates the mesh network). The GE ones I've gotten worked fine. With Z-Wave, the rule is basically anything that is not working off of batteries will beam signals from neighboring devices and allow you to extend your network.
 
I 'think' Z-Wave is limited to 60 feet based on conversations I had with various vendors at CES. But, I am no expert as I don't use this technology (only report on it) ;)

The GE manual that came with the items I purchased showed a line-of-sight distance of 100', and also listed other ranges based on the number of walls between devices as well as construction materials (sheetrock vs. concrete, and plastic gang boxes vs. metal).

Edit... This is what I was talking about:
zwavespecs.jpg
 
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