Doesn't make sense. Isn't this the fire sprinkler valve over which you have no control? If a fire sprinkler goes off doesn't the water flow until someone shuts the valve off?v1rtu0s1ty said:I was reading the VSR manual and there was a note there not to leave the valve open for a long time. I had it open for like 10 mins.
monitoring fire sprinkler system
- Thread starter v1rtu0s1ty
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v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Near or just above the sump pump, I have a TESTanDRAIN knob which allows me do conduct TEST if water flow is still working. The pipe where TESTandDRAIN knob is connected is where all the fire sprinkler heads are connected. When I put the knob to TEST(6 o'clock or red pointing downwards), the water just goes to the sump pit and eventually(45secs to 1 min) ringing the BELL and the STROBE outside the house. But today, that didn't happen. I don't know why. I waited for more than 2 minutes. I'm very sure that shut off valves near the water flow valve are in open position.
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v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Are you sure you are getting enough flow to trip the indicator?
Maybe remove all the wiring and look at the resistance between your NC and C terminals with a resistance (low scale) setting on your meter. Then look at the NO and C and do the same.
If that flow indicator is moving, this will tell you.
Maybe remove all the wiring and look at the resistance between your NC and C terminals with a resistance (low scale) setting on your meter. Then look at the NO and C and do the same.
If that flow indicator is moving, this will tell you.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I'm also thinking that when I was working at it a while ago, I shut the valve off. I worked on it for 30 minutes. Then I went to the sump pump and put the knob to TEST. While the shut off valve was closed, I was like draining the water from all the pipes. What I'm going to do tomorrow is switch it to TEST for 5 minutes. I can't test it now because my kids might get scared of the noise.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
or do you think removing the cover on the water flow valve for the flexible conduit might have ruined the valve? I used a flat screw driver on the edge of the circle as mentioned on the manual and using a small hammer.
do you think removing the cover on the water flow valve for the flexible conduit might have ruined the valve? I used a flat screw driver on the edge of the circle as mentioned on the manual and using a small hammer.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
one quick question though. Am I correct that COMM should be connected to the NEG on M1?BraveSirRobbin said:
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Comm?? I thought that there were only C, NO, and NC connections (there is no polarity involved unless I got lost along the way in this lengthy post).
Basically this is a contact closure where C is the "swinger" that would make a "closed" connection to the NC (Normally Closed) connection when the sensor is NOT tripped (i.e. closed contact in its "normal" condition. Your meter on the smallest ohms scale should read near zero (about the same as when you touch the meter leads together).
Vice versa, the connection between C and NO (normally open) is well, "open". Your meter would read an "infinite" resistance (should be on the highest ohms scale).
Now, when your sensor (flow indicator) is "tripped" (i.e. flow flow flow) all of the above readings will be opposite of what I stated.
Some meters have an audible sounder that will let you know when a low resistance happens (continuity tester). If you can find this setting (just test it with your meter leads touching) then place your meter leads on the NO and C terminals. When you have flow you should hear the meter indication.
Basically this is a contact closure where C is the "swinger" that would make a "closed" connection to the NC (Normally Closed) connection when the sensor is NOT tripped (i.e. closed contact in its "normal" condition. Your meter on the smallest ohms scale should read near zero (about the same as when you touch the meter leads together).
Vice versa, the connection between C and NO (normally open) is well, "open". Your meter would read an "infinite" resistance (should be on the highest ohms scale).
Now, when your sensor (flow indicator) is "tripped" (i.e. flow flow flow) all of the above readings will be opposite of what I stated.
Some meters have an audible sounder that will let you know when a low resistance happens (continuity tester). If you can find this setting (just test it with your meter leads touching) then place your meter leads on the NO and C terminals. When you have flow you should hear the meter indication.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
On the picture, I only see, NC, NO and COMM. I might have abbreviated COMM to C before and was not aware that I made a confusion.
But looking at the picture on the manual, the connection of the EOLR is straight forward.
But looking at the picture on the manual, the connection of the EOLR is straight forward.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Oh, my bad. I think you have it correct. I was just wondering if somehow this was a voltage source and not just a simple contact closure!
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Here is an update. I ran the TEST for 2 minutes. Used my vom(set to AC) to check the reading between NC and COMM. The reading where the BELL is connected is averaging between 129 and 131 which is a good indication of AC. However, the bad thing is, it still didn't tripped.
For the other COMM and NC where I had ELK previously connected, the reading was .03 DC. This is with no water flowing and is before when I turned the knob to TEST in the sump pump. While water was flowing, reading became 0.
For the other COMM and NC where I had ELK previously connected, the reading was .03 DC. This is with no water flowing and is before when I turned the knob to TEST in the sump pump. While water was flowing, reading became 0.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Well, maybe the valve is stuck or you did do some damage with that hammer/screwdriver thing you described above.
I would get this down to the simple bare bones situation so you can see what is going on.
Power down any AC going to the valve, then again, put down your tools and read my posts above.
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...indpost&p=50885
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...indpost&p=50894
Anyone else have any ideas what could be going on? You had this working once, wonder what went wrong?
I would get this down to the simple bare bones situation so you can see what is going on.
Power down any AC going to the valve, then again, put down your tools and read my posts above.
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...indpost&p=50885
http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showto...indpost&p=50894
Anyone else have any ideas what could be going on? You had this working once, wonder what went wrong?
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I've been with Potter Technical Support since 8:30 and they are also wondering why it isn't working. They have already taught me how to manually trip the valve by pushing the paddle downwards manually and the oval piece should go down slowly accdg to them. They also taught me how to set the retard knob so that oval thing goes down but still no success. It did go down if I touch it little by little then it goes down by itself. However, it still didn't trip it.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Just finished the call with Potter. They told me that when the oval piece goes down, the 2 metal 1.5" plate at the bottom of the switch should go down as well. Tonight, They told me to manually pull the 2 metal piece and see if on the next test, it fixes it.
EDIT: Also, based from all the testing I've done, they have a bad feeling that switch is bad. They also told me that if the people who installed it will not replace it, they will replace it for me but looks like I'm going to do it by myself.
EDIT2: I asked Potter about the COMM and NC wires where it needs to go to. This is their response:
So looks like ELK could not be the cause of the switch failure. They also told me that my ELK would not cause it to fail. It could be my hammering which affected the spring inside the switch to fail. GRRRR!
EDIT: Also, based from all the testing I've done, they have a bad feeling that switch is bad. They also told me that if the people who installed it will not replace it, they will replace it for me but looks like I'm going to do it by myself.
EDIT2: I asked Potter about the COMM and NC wires where it needs to go to. This is their response:
So looks like ELK could not be the cause of the switch failure. They also told me that my ELK would not cause it to fail. It could be my hammering which affected the spring inside the switch to fail. GRRRR!
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Update folks. I finally got it working. WOOHOO!!!! I'm just wondering though why when it got tripped, it didn't call my central station. Any ideas folks?
Here is a very quick blog I made. :lol:
more pictures at http://restricted.dyndns.org/firesprinkler/
Here is a very quick blog I made. :lol:
more pictures at http://restricted.dyndns.org/firesprinkler/
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