Controlling an irrigation controller? Hunter?

[MikeB]

Finally got an irrigation system installed, of course about 2 months too late for my lawn. I had the company install their standard controller (Hunter Pro-C) so I could get up and running quickly, but would like to consider hooking it into my home automation system.

I was kind of hoping that this controller or perhaps a higher-end model would have an RS-232 or ethernet port for PC control, but I haven't been able to find one for a reasonable price.

I know the common solution is to replace the controller with an Elk relay board or Rain8 or whatever, but I really don't want to give up the manual controller in the garage. I want the irrigation company to feel comfortable with the system if they need to come down to adjust the system, replace any heads, test, etc. - especially while it is under warranty. BUT I'd like the ability to turn off the manual contoller's schedule and use PC-based control instead.

Is anyone aware of a standard controller that might offer an RS-232 or ethernet port for PC-based control with a published protocol? Preferably a Hunter?

Any other suggestions for an irrigation newbie?

Thanks!

 

[iostream212]

I had a similar issue and decided to use the ELK along with the original garage controller for my system. I just ran a CAT5 from the controller in the garage to my automation panel. This gives you control of 7 zones with one wire used for common. Hooked up the common to the 24v AC on the controller and the rest to the individual zones. At the relay board in the ELK wired all the commons in series and the other zones for 'Normally Open.' I have been using this setup for over a year and have never had any issues with it, though some may complain about running 24v through 24g wire. The ELK is easily controlled via XEP and has a published robust serial protocol if you want to write a homebrew irrigation timer. I personally went the eKeypad / iPod route for controller, but perhaps that is a little too manual for your application.

 

[WayneW]

Hooked up the common to the 24v AC on the controller and the rest to the individual zones.

From the picture, it appears that you are hooked to the "VT" rather than the "COM". What is the the "VT" terminal? What brand of controller?

 

[iostream212]

From the picture, it appears that you are hooked to the "VT" rather than the "COM". What is the the "VT" terminal? What brand of controller?

It is a RainBird Modular ESP controller. The VT is an always on 24v. This way I pump the 24v to my relay board across all commons and don't have to worry about an additional power supply in my automatin can.

 

[roussell]

WGL has a Rain8 version now that has some local control - basically manual on/off for each zone but it may fit your needs.

If you really want to retain the current system, consider doing something similar to what iostream did by wiring in an automation controller in but in parallel (rather than series) with each zone, and also add a normally-closed relay in series with the common wire on the manual controller. That way you can close the relay (with elk, etc.) which will open the common wire preventing the manual controller form working. Then the automation controller can control the zones.

Terry

 

[JimS]

I have much the same issue. Same Hunter controller although I want to expand to more zones than it can handle. Right now I have 2 Pro C units and just stagger the watering times.

The newer ProC units can accept a module to adjust the time based on temperature and other things besides rainfall called Solar Sync. This appears to be and ET type system. Not sure of the cost of this.

I plan to build up a microntroller based controller described here:
http://www.rgbled.org/sprinkler/index.html

and feed it information from my automation controller (misterhouse). Others have gotten this working.

Others have used rain8 modules and similar. You should be able to find that by doing a search here for sprinkler control.

Running sprinkler valves with #24 wire is a bit marginal. Especially if you have a master valve and the common wire has to handle current for two valves.

 

[pete_c]

Taking the controller out of the picture - zones/heads can be tested manually at the manifold boxes. (with no electronic master valve).

An AB multi-relay-zone switch would be great to fall back to a legacy controller.

My wife is aware of the software/Rain8's that is utilized today.

If something were to happen to me she would most likely remove the setup and put the Rainbird controller back into place.

 

[Ranger Digital]

can a rainbird esp that an irriagtion company is installing be controlled via an HAI panel? I ran one cat5 to it. Do I need more?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

IF you could somehow integrate a remote control (I use a palm pad as my Relay-8 x10 unit controls my sprinklers) it would be a very valuable capability, especially when troubleshooting/repairing your system (I know, having done this a few times). It's great to find a leak without having to 'flood the ditch' you just dug, fix the problem, then test again, all without having to leave the area where the problem is.

Your lawn service company can use a spare remote and wouldn't need access to your garage/house.

 

[Desert_AIP]

IF you could somehow integrate a remote control (I use a palm pad as my Relay-8 x10 unit controls my sprinklers) it would be a very valuable capability, especially when troubleshooting/repairing your system (I know, having done this a few times). It's great to find a leak without having to 'flood the ditch' you just dug, fix the problem, then test again, all without having to leave the area where the problem is.

Your lawn service company can use a spare remote and wouldn't need access to your garage/house.

HAI wireless 4 button keyfob is perfect for this kind of thing.

 

[nov0798]

Dont know if this will help or not?

http://m1sprinkler.blogspot.com/2006_08_01_archive.html

 

[programmergeek]

I have the new rain 8 it has manual control to tuyrn on and off zones. On top of that my HAI controls it I can control the HAI via a web page, any alarm pannel around the house or my iphone. I think I may go to pc based system just to try it but the same thing any smart phone or web page can get to it. I don't know how to make it simpler I don't need to go to the gurage or ever look at the panel and I have a bunch of programs right from my phone.

Dont know if this will help or not?

http://m1sprinkler.blogspot.com/2006_08_01_archive.html

 

[Ranger Digital]

I have the new rain 8 it has manual control to tuyrn on and off zones. On top of that my HAI controls it I can control the HAI via a web page, any alarm pannel around the house or my iphone. I think I may go to pc based system just to try it but the same thing any smart phone or web page can get to it. I don't know how to make it simpler I don't need to go to the gurage or ever look at the panel and I have a bunch of programs right from my phone.

Dont know if this will help or not?

http://m1sprinkler.blogspot.com/2006_08_01_archive.html

PG, the rain8 doesnt have its own programmability though right? what im hopping to do is let the irrigation people put in their stuff, program it, blah blah and then just lay an HAI solution on top of it. Rain8 works for me but i am not sure it will work on this next install.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Ira]

I'm about half finished setting up a "combo" system like the one you're talking about. Right now, my system is controlled by a Hunter Pro-C. I purchased the Rain8NetPro but haven't put it into service yet. I also have an Elk M1G and use CQC. The Rain8NetPro is not a "scheduler", so you need something else for that function. I have McsSprinklers on trial and will be buying that as soon as I get the hardware set up. So the Rain8, controlled by McsSprinklers, will become my primary controller. But, I want to keep the Pro-C as a backup, and (ultimately) put some simple functionality in the M1G/CQC. For now, I am building this to control seven zones and a master valve, but it should be easy to expand if necessary.

To accomplish this, I bought a SP3T (on-on-on) toggle switch. It will have 24Vac connected to it (same PS that powers the controllers and zone valves). The three positions will feed power to the coils on three sets of 24Vac 4PDT relays (two relays per set). The contact side of each set of relays will correspond to the output from the Rain8, Pro-C, or M1G. For example, when the toggle switch is in position one, the relays in set one will close. That will complete the circuit between the Rain8 and the valves. When the toggle switch is in position two, it will complete the circuit for the Pro-C and valves (and open the circuit for the Rain8 and M1G). So at any given time, depending on the toggle switch position, one and only one controller device will be providing power to the valves. However, the other two will still be powered up and think they are controlling valves.

Each wire ultimately going to a valve also goes to another 24Vac DPDT relay so that whenever there is power going to valve, the associated DPDT relay is closed. One set of contacts on each DPDT relay is used as a dry contact switch connected to a M1G zone. That way, the M1G knows when there is power going to a zone, which opens up possibilities for zone monitoring even if the M1G isn't the primary controller. The other side of the DPDT relay contacts will turn on an indicator light on a panel somewhere in the home so I can easily see what valves are powered up (supposedly open) without having to go to a computer, keypad, etc.

I may put a relay controlled by the M1G in front of the toggle switch to act as an emergency switch regardless of what control device is being used. If the M1G detects something wrong, or someone hits the "emergency off" M1G switch (or button on a CQC screen), that relay will open which results in no power to any of the sets of 4PDT switches, which results in no power going to the valves. Another possibility is having the M1G function the same as the SP3T toggle switch, i.e., be able to choose between controllers via the M1G/CQC. Although I would not want that to replace the toggle switch, just have it as an automated alternative.

Yes, I believe in overkill. And noone gets to see my solder work on the prototype board that holds the eight DPDT relays and assorted terminal blocks.

 

[mikei-ma]

Has anyone looked into the Hunter SRR remote control protocol? It would appear that if you had the protocol you could control the zones with the Elk M1 via serial or rs485.