Why do the solder Gods hate me so??
- Thread starter beelzerob
- Start date
Paul
Active Member
There's a better method than solder sucker and solder wick. It doesn't work in all situations, but here's what you do...
If you're removing a component from a board, hold the board perpendicular to your workstation about 2 or 3 inches off the surface. Heat the joint you'd like to de-solder until the solder melts, remove your soldering iron, and whack the board onto your workspace. If done properly, the solder will fly off (but who solders on a good table?), and your part will be free.
I was taught this in school as the 'heat and tap' method, and it really is the quickest way to de-solder a lot of joints when you can do it. Only thing to watch out for is that occasionally the solder will run and create a solder bridge, so pay attention to the way your tracks look before and after.
If you're removing a component from a board, hold the board perpendicular to your workstation about 2 or 3 inches off the surface. Heat the joint you'd like to de-solder until the solder melts, remove your soldering iron, and whack the board onto your workspace. If done properly, the solder will fly off (but who solders on a good table?), and your part will be free.
I was taught this in school as the 'heat and tap' method, and it really is the quickest way to de-solder a lot of joints when you can do it. Only thing to watch out for is that occasionally the solder will run and create a solder bridge, so pay attention to the way your tracks look before and after.
beelzerob
Senior Member
Well, I was pretty close to trying the "bang it against the table until the solder comes off" method last night, but it had nothing to do with desoldering.
What the flux is Flux?
I'm about to go back down to the dungeon and try this again. I hate to hear that once again, I have a poor iron and poor desoldering method..but I'm not all that surprised. It's true that great equipment makes all the difference in some things. I just didn't think soldering would be enough of a common event to warrant the extra expense.
beelzerob
Senior Member
Well, some more time put in, and I think the net result is that I've added solder to the connections, and almost some copper braid permanently too.
Just for reference, here are the 3 connections I'm trying to free up. The wire ends are soldered into the connections with the solid copper wire.
Just for "fun", I took a blob of solder that had fallen into the desk (during tinning), and I put the braid on top of it and put the iron on top of that...and lo and behold, it actually did melt into the braid. So it would seem that in theory it DOES work.
Is it possible the solder they used is a higher temp kind? I've been able to get the tip of the iron to make dents in it, and it kind of becomes malleable, but it certainly doesn't quickly become a quivering mass of molten metal.
Just for reference, here are the 3 connections I'm trying to free up. The wire ends are soldered into the connections with the solid copper wire.
Just for "fun", I took a blob of solder that had fallen into the desk (during tinning), and I put the braid on top of it and put the iron on top of that...and lo and behold, it actually did melt into the braid. So it would seem that in theory it DOES work.
Is it possible the solder they used is a higher temp kind? I've been able to get the tip of the iron to make dents in it, and it kind of becomes malleable, but it certainly doesn't quickly become a quivering mass of molten metal.
You should just be able to heat those joints by pressing the iron tip into the wire (lay it parallel to the solder mass for max heat transfer) and get the solder loose and then pull the wire off. You can then heat the area and take a moist sponge or towel and wipe the solder if with a quick move.
For Braid....you put the braid on the solder joint to be cleaned...you then put the tinned tip of the iron on the braid and I apply a little pressure and "wiggle" it or "mash" it into the solder a bit to get the tip into the mesh for better heat transfer. You should begin to see the braid wicking up the solder. At a certain point (a few seconds) that area of the braid will be saturated and you should then move the braid along a bit to a new length of it against the same solder joint.
For all these operations, the goal is maximum heat transfer in the shortest time required using the lowest heat source (iron wattage) that will get the solder flowing. I usually set my Weller at 525 degrees or so. It has a digital temp gauge
The project you are working on is a good one for learning. Don't give up just yet. Circuit boards require quite a bit more dexterity and aren't as tolerent to overheat.
For Braid....you put the braid on the solder joint to be cleaned...you then put the tinned tip of the iron on the braid and I apply a little pressure and "wiggle" it or "mash" it into the solder a bit to get the tip into the mesh for better heat transfer. You should begin to see the braid wicking up the solder. At a certain point (a few seconds) that area of the braid will be saturated and you should then move the braid along a bit to a new length of it against the same solder joint.
For all these operations, the goal is maximum heat transfer in the shortest time required using the lowest heat source (iron wattage) that will get the solder flowing. I usually set my Weller at 525 degrees or so. It has a digital temp gauge
The project you are working on is a good one for learning. Don't give up just yet. Circuit boards require quite a bit more dexterity and aren't as tolerent to overheat.
it sounds to me like your iron isn't hot enough. There is a big difference between un-soldering an electronic component vs. a large metal tab in terms of the amount of heat needed. A large amount of metal might take many seconds before it is hot enough, even with a good iron
I think it is interesting that some people love the vacuum pumps and hate the braid and vice versa. It seems like it is one or the other and seldom both.
I think it is interesting that some people love the vacuum pumps and hate the braid and vice versa. It seems like it is one or the other and seldom both.
Paul
Active Member
"Flux" is an agent that helps solder flow better when it is hot. When you buy solder you'll notice that it is all either Rosin Core or Acid Core.
The "Core" is actually flux paste. You can buy flux by itself though. Generally, Acid Core solder is used for plumbing and steamfitting and Rosin Core is used for electronics. Acid can damage electronics components. If you want to go buy some, you will likely not have much luck anywhere but radio shack. Most hardware stores will only stock acid flux.
Acid is probably OK for this type of connection, but you should order some Rosin for future use. Smear it on the connections before you put your iron on them and you will definitely notice a difference.
Does your soldering iron by any chance have a screw in tip? If so, maybe the tip is loose (happens easily) and it isn't getting as good connection as it should. Take a pair of needle nose, grip the tip, and twist clockwise. If it moves at all you'll get a bunch more heat. You may also want to consider cleaning the tip. I like to put a little flux on the tip to soften up stuck solder chunks (while hot), and then rub it on a wet paper towel. getting the crap off will help get more heat to the part.
Lastly, if you've got a cheap soldering iron, it may not put out enough heat to heat up those connections. Those things are BIG. When you're at the hardware store next, check prices on soldering guns. They tend to work better for large connections like that. You could also get a butane mini-torch and melt the solder that way.
If you take anything from my rambling it should be to do these 4 things, in this order:
1- make sure your tip is tight
2- make sure your tip is clean
3- flux the shit out of your part
4- if you still aren't making enough heat, get a gun or a torch
Desoldering old solder can be a pain in the ass, but I can assure you that it isn't indicative of how all of your soldering experiences are going to go.
The "Core" is actually flux paste. You can buy flux by itself though. Generally, Acid Core solder is used for plumbing and steamfitting and Rosin Core is used for electronics. Acid can damage electronics components. If you want to go buy some, you will likely not have much luck anywhere but radio shack. Most hardware stores will only stock acid flux.
Acid is probably OK for this type of connection, but you should order some Rosin for future use. Smear it on the connections before you put your iron on them and you will definitely notice a difference.
Does your soldering iron by any chance have a screw in tip? If so, maybe the tip is loose (happens easily) and it isn't getting as good connection as it should. Take a pair of needle nose, grip the tip, and twist clockwise. If it moves at all you'll get a bunch more heat. You may also want to consider cleaning the tip. I like to put a little flux on the tip to soften up stuck solder chunks (while hot), and then rub it on a wet paper towel. getting the crap off will help get more heat to the part.
Lastly, if you've got a cheap soldering iron, it may not put out enough heat to heat up those connections. Those things are BIG. When you're at the hardware store next, check prices on soldering guns. They tend to work better for large connections like that. You could also get a butane mini-torch and melt the solder that way.
If you take anything from my rambling it should be to do these 4 things, in this order:
1- make sure your tip is tight
2- make sure your tip is clean
3- flux the shit out of your part
4- if you still aren't making enough heat, get a gun or a torch
Desoldering old solder can be a pain in the ass, but I can assure you that it isn't indicative of how all of your soldering experiences are going to go.
drozwood90
Senior Member
You can't do this with crystals and most Oscillators on the board...especially without an ESD mat (they act as a cushion).
The deceleration would kill the circuit.
Luckily, with just a few wires, this probably IS the fastest way to get the solder off. Just make sure you get your iron up to temp. Say 700-800 deg. for this de-solder job. And as stated above. FLUX the S$%T out of it, you'd be surprised how easy it is to solder with more flux. Esp. when working with 0201 sized parts (2mmx1mm). Yeah, I'm nuts...
--Dan
beelzerob
Senior Member
Well, the bulb has failed me as well. To its credit, it did actually suck up some solder...but it's probably just the solder I had previously added trying to 'transfer the heat".
I think the general consensus is that despite the fact that I fear for 3 rd degree burns everytime use this thing, and that I can feel the metal and copper half a foot away getting warm....this iron just isn't getting it hot enough.
I'm not willing to invest more money in a gun or bigger iron just for this effort to salvage a spare power strip. So I think instead I'll go completely duct-tape on it and just butt splice some wires to the wires that exist there now. It's not like I ever managed to loosen any of them anyway.....
Thanks for all of the help. This probably won't be my last thwarting by Tepid, the God of Inadequate Soldering Heat.
I think the general consensus is that despite the fact that I fear for 3 rd degree burns everytime use this thing, and that I can feel the metal and copper half a foot away getting warm....this iron just isn't getting it hot enough.
I'm not willing to invest more money in a gun or bigger iron just for this effort to salvage a spare power strip. So I think instead I'll go completely duct-tape on it and just butt splice some wires to the wires that exist there now. It's not like I ever managed to loosen any of them anyway.....
Thanks for all of the help. This probably won't be my last thwarting by Tepid, the God of Inadequate Soldering Heat.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
If you don't mind the shipping costs, I'll do this for you!
beelzerob
Senior Member
Oh, that'd be just about normal for me....
So we went into Lowes, and I took this outlet strip with me so I could find a new strain relief for the wire. Well they didn't have any as small as I needed, but they did have half inch, so I though, well, ok, I'll drill a bigger hole in the strip. But it'd take a 3/4" diameter hole for that. I don't have a 3/4" bit, other than for wood. So, off to the drill bit aisle. I actually picked a few up, before I realized I was starting to do it again.... I was about to spend a LOT of money so that I could salvage something worth a fraction of that cost.
The power strip came attached to the 2 full racks I bought for $5. So that makes the strip itself somewhere under like 30 cents.
So if you lived next door, then I could see doing that, but otherwise, it'd be cheaper to go buy one at Lowes than ship this thing around.
However....I do have a secu16 that needs 3 components repaired, and that's small and light enough to be shipped, if you're up to the challenge. I still have to nail down the parts and order them, and there's also a chance I can get someone at work to do it...but it's good to have a backup plan.
So we went into Lowes, and I took this outlet strip with me so I could find a new strain relief for the wire. Well they didn't have any as small as I needed, but they did have half inch, so I though, well, ok, I'll drill a bigger hole in the strip. But it'd take a 3/4" diameter hole for that. I don't have a 3/4" bit, other than for wood. So, off to the drill bit aisle. I actually picked a few up, before I realized I was starting to do it again.... I was about to spend a LOT of money so that I could salvage something worth a fraction of that cost.
The power strip came attached to the 2 full racks I bought for $5. So that makes the strip itself somewhere under like 30 cents.
So if you lived next door, then I could see doing that, but otherwise, it'd be cheaper to go buy one at Lowes than ship this thing around.
However....I do have a secu16 that needs 3 components repaired, and that's small and light enough to be shipped, if you're up to the challenge. I still have to nail down the parts and order them, and there's also a chance I can get someone at work to do it...but it's good to have a backup plan.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Would need a little more details on what the components are like. Sometimes for instance, IC's are soldered right on the board and are a real pita to get off (I will sometimes just clip them off, unsolder the legs, then put the new one on). Also, I don't do anything that is surface mounted.
beelzerob
Senior Member
As seen in this thread. 2 caps and a voltage regulator.
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