Why do the solder Gods hate me so??

[beelzerob]

I have NEVER had luck with soldering. No matter how many videos I watch, or how many people tell me how easy it is, I always seem to just sit there waiting for solder to melt into the component...and wait and wait and wait...and of course if I touch the solder to the iron, it practically flashes into liquid...but try to heat the component and hold the solder to it..nothing.

Well, removing solder isn't any easier for me. I'm trying to replace a power cord into a power strip, and that means removing the 3 wires inside, which are soldered to the internal copper wires. So I got me some copper braid, and my trusty 30w iron, and away I go. I watch a youtube video of how to do this, and they all show the same thing....put the braid on the solder, put the iron on the braid over the solder, and watch like magic how it's all sucked up into the braid. Soon the solder is completely removed, into the braid.

So I try. Wait Wait wait wait. Ok, I THINK that single strand of braid has changed color... Remove the braid...solder has not changed at all. I hold the iron to the solder, and it starts melting right away. I put the braid back on, hold the iron to it...nothing. I must have the most heat resistant copper braid ever made. Oh, no...that's not true, because the copper braid where I'm holding it is getting almost too hot to touch.

So I'm done breathing in the smell of burning solder tonight. Does anyone have any particularl insight into why I'm the only one in the world that solder doesn't do what it's supposed to for?

 

[Brightan]

two things that might help. 1) add fresh solder to the old solder before trying to wick it away and 2) when you press your iron against the wick, add a bit of fresh solder to the wick, right by the tip (you can even use the tip to melt the solder). This will cause the new solder to flow through the wick and help to melt the old solder and start the "wicking" action. As the solder starts to flow, slowly pull the wick to get a fresh area without going to fast to lose the heat.

 

[beelzerob]

Well, sounds like it'll combine both things I suck at...applying AND removing solder...but I'll try it. (tomorrow...the smell of solder still lingers in my nostrils)

 

[DavidL]

Adding a touch of solder like Brightan suggests aids in the heat transfer from tip to wire. Once the heat is transferred, then the solder will flow into the wire ensuring a quality thru bond.

The key is clean and just warm enough iron to flow the solder. It sounds like you are using too hot a gun.

Are you using a solder gun or iron? An iron is best for most small communication wires. A gun for larger work.

A temperature controlled tip is best. Weller makes some of the best.

There is typically a sponge that you wet to dab the hot tip into to clean the tip every now and then. ReTin (put solder on the tip directly) after cleaning. This "tinning" is what helps that heat transfer.

If the solder looks flowed and shiny, you done good. White and cratered means you didn't get the solder to flow (a Cold Solder) that will eventually break.

 

[beelzerob]

Well, I'm on my second soldering iron, as I blamed the first iron for my difficulties. I now have an iron with TWO settings....15 and 30. It is definitely an iron, not a gun.

Which of what you suggest will help in the desoldering? Those sounded like soldering tips, other than tinning the tip.

 

[SnyperBob]

Hmmm, I've never had any luck with braid/wick for removing solder. I always used solder suckers and those work best for me at least...

 

[beelzerob]

Ya, that was in one of the videos I saw. I just hated the idea of throwing even MORE money at it until I proved I could do it the hard way. I'm tired of thinking it's always the equipment, and then always being proven wrong.

*sigh*

I've only seen the little squeeze bulbs, and only at Radio Shack. Where do I get the nifty springloaded thingy?

 

[brotsten]

I agree with the others, except that the Iron is too hot.

You have to make sure the tip is clean and tinned. Like David said, benchtop model comes with a sponge you keep wet and just drag the hot iron over it to clean the tip. You can get away with a folded paper towel that is well soaked.

Solder wick is rather large and will cool a smaller iron down sometimes before it can work. If that is the case, you can massage the solder wick into a wider piece with the strands farther apart, it won't absorb the heat quite so fast as you are working with a smaller area.

Like the others said, it always helps with the heat transfer to dab a little solder on the iron right before you start to heat the area.

Just wait, after it clicks in you being doing a little dance and asking what's wrong with all those other dummies....

Brian

 

[brotsten]

Hmmm, I've never had any luck with braid/wick for removing solder. I always used solder suckers and those work best for me at least...

The biggest problem with those is they can work so well they pull the trace off the board you are working on.

Brian

 

[beelzerob]

Oh to have the problems of something working TOO well....

So far, almost all my work has been on wires and connections, not circuit boards. I've got a long way to go to feel confident messing with tiny components....

How can the iron being too hot be a problem for desoldering? Especially when the solder isn't melting under the braid?? I thought 30w was a standard size for a soldering iron. I could turn it down to 15 watts, but I already get to frustrated waiting for something to happen....

I do have the little stand with the sponge. I hadn't used it for desoldering, as I thought that was only important for soldering. I'll clean the tip, tin it, and then use the tinned tip for desoldering.

 

[SnyperBob]

I've only seen the little squeeze bulbs, and only at Radio Shack. Where do I get the nifty springloaded thingy?

I think Fry's carries them, otherwise you can get them online for less than $10. Seriously worth it.....I wasted like 30 mins with that wick crap, then tried a sucker and worked great first time. Just melt the solder and suck it out

 

[tmbrown97]

I'm in the same boat as you - I've always sucked at soldering, so when I need something done now, I call my brother-in-law, who's got more experience soldering (he refurbishes circuit boards for a living) than anyone I know.

The one thing I've taken away - the little radio shack soldering irons are absolute pieces of #$&@. That little 15/30W one sounds like one of the $10 ones I've bought so many times in the past and had the exact same experience. The heat isn't consistent and they turn on/off whether you like it or not - so they vary greatly in temperature (as I'm told - sounded good to me).

The one soldering iron I have good luck with is a $20 butane one from Radio Shack - 2 pros now have commented on how well it worked when assisting me on projects. Because it's gas, and you control the flow, it's consistent and largely adjustable. I actually have 2 now, and they're all I'll use.

So while I'm not a lot of help on the de-soldering, that's the suggestion I'd have to make. Anyone I know who needs to solder often uses a nice Weller or equivalent - but expect to pay ~$80 for a nice one. From what I've seen/heard, it'll change your impression of soldering. Oh - and use flux - religiously, so I'm told.

 

[BLH]

Internal copper wires or a copper buss bar?
It actually sounds like in this situation; there is not enough heat to melt the solder as it is being absorbed by the copper wire or buss bar.

For things like PC Boards and lighter connections a 15 or 30 watt iron maybe correct. Each situation may use a different soldering iron.

 

[123]

Before university, I attended a technical college and purchased a soldering iron. I recently had to do some soldering and dredged up my 30 year-old Weller soldering iron. It still has my name, rendered in Dymo tape, glued onto its baby-blue handle. Naturally, with soldering comes un-soldering (especially if you haven't soldered in several decades) and I found my ancient, spring-powered 'solder-sucker' as well. Moral of the story: good equipment lasts a lifetime and some people never throw out anything.

If the soldering tip isn't shiny, but coated with oxidization (i.e. gray), melt solder on the tip and quickly wipe it off with a wet sponge (no sponge? use a wadded paper towel). I just put all three items in contact (soldering tip, solder, wire) and that seems to work for me. If the object to be soldered acts as a heatsink, try 'tinning' it first. That means don't try to bond the items it one go but simply melt solder onto each component separately. Afterwards, bring them together, apply heat, and the solder on each item will melt and bond.

The shape of the soldering tip is also a factor. A chisel tip is good for general-purpose soldering of wires and big stuff. A pointed tip is for the leads of small components mounted onto PCBs. I've also used a chisel tip for circuit boards but you've got to be careful or you can easily overheat a trace and it'll lift off of the substrate. You can use a simple gadget, like the one I built 30 years ago, that cuts power to the iron so it can have High and Low temperature modes ("half-wave rectifier").

Success with desoldering depends on the situation. Basically, place the solder-sucker near the soldered joint, heat the solder until it flows and, at that very instant, press the trigger and let the solder-sucker vacuum away the hot solder. Sometimes it works exactly as described.

 

[drozwood90]

I have NEVER had luck with soldering. No matter how many videos I watch, or how many people tell me how easy it is, I always seem to just sit there waiting for solder to melt into the component...and wait and wait and wait...and of course if I touch the solder to the iron, it practically flashes into liquid...but try to heat the component and hold the solder to it..nothing.

Well, removing solder isn't any easier for me. I'm trying to replace a power cord into a power strip, and that means removing the 3 wires inside, which are soldered to the internal copper wires. So I got me some copper braid, and my trusty 30w iron, and away I go. I watch a youtube video of how to do this, and they all show the same thing....put the braid on the solder, put the iron on the braid over the solder, and watch like magic how it's all sucked up into the braid. Soon the solder is completely removed, into the braid.

So I try. Wait Wait wait wait. Ok, I THINK that single strand of braid has changed color... Remove the braid...solder has not changed at all. I hold the iron to the solder, and it starts melting right away. I put the braid back on, hold the iron to it...nothing. I must have the most heat resistant copper braid ever made. Oh, no...that's not true, because the copper braid where I'm holding it is getting almost too hot to touch.

So I'm done breathing in the smell of burning solder tonight. Does anyone have any particularl insight into why I'm the only one in the world that solder doesn't do what it's supposed to for?

You need FLUX.