SwitchLinc switches and UPB switches

[Mike]

An easy one: Has any one seen both the version 1 switchlincs and the UPB (simply automated) switches? It seems like the UPB ones look like switchlinc companion switches. Is this accurate?

I had started using the switchlincs and have not finished all the locations. After having seen some of the other alternatives it seems upb or insteon is a better bet for reliability (which I have not yet had to deal with since I have not automated any of the lighting yet) and such.

I think it was an unfortunate business move for smarthome to not provide some form of upgrade path or addon cover for those who had invested in switchlincs v1 earlier (insteons will work with x10 as well right?). I'm just looking to keep an acceptable WAF and two types of swithces (during transition or otherwise) will not work.

I also liked the insteons due to the footprint, I have been slow to buy new switches as the original switchlincs require my current electrical boxes to be replaced with deep ones.

Any thoughts? (I'm wondering if I can relocate the existing switches to isolated locations (garage, basement,etc). I think the general consensus around here is that UPB is best (with some exceptions) but Insteon looks like a new contender as well.

I'm looking to figure out how I want to proceed as, now that I have my elk I want to start tying the lights in, starting with external ones that are not yet wired... (well some are, but not all).

 

[kwilcox]

I've got V1 switchlincs and US11 SAI switches and they're pretty different. The toggle on the UPB switches is wider because there's no status LED bar. The V1 switches are a pretty close match to the current switchlincs in terms of design, but the color match on all switchlincs is horrible. Its my biggest gripe with switchlincs; I don't think I have two that are the same color white....

 

[Steve]

I noticed the same thing on the 3 switchlinc relays I have. Supposedly the new SAI switches US2-40 is a little shallower than the originals and the LED are blue/green instead of red/green. Martin says the HAI switch is even a little shallower than the 40. I like the LED on the HAI better it is brighter and 'solid' rather than the LED on the SAI which also acts as the air gap. But the SAI is more flexible in that you can change the plates to double or quad rockers. The SAI 40's also don't match the 30's (single rocker like the HAI) yet as far as LED & brightness. I'd say it is a close call between the HAI and SAI 40's. As with everything in this field, there is no one clear winner / perfect.

BTW: You can see kwilcox switches here to see the color difference that I have as well.

 

[Mike]

Thanks. And if I were to take it one step further and remove my existing switchlincs as a factor, is UPB the way to go over Insteon? Insteon retains the bar for light level which is nice, and they both seem to report very quick response and high reliability. Insteon seems to be almost 40% cheaper (switches seem to all be $59 versus around $100 if I read the different parts required for UPB).

I also like the Insteon's smaller footprint (due to my shallow electrical boxes in many cases).

I'm sure there are some strong opinions on this, anyone feel like sharing?

 

[ChrisWalker]

Insteon retains the bar for light level which is nice, and they both seem to report very quick response and high reliability. Insteon seems to be almost 40% cheaper (switches seem to all be $59 versus around $100 if I read the different parts required for UPB).

Just FYI, the upcoming Leviton Z-Wave dimmer switches also have an LED bar on them. I know that they're not scheduled for release until later this year, but I thought I'd throw that out.

Chris

 

[kwilcox]

The SAI US11-30 UPB switches run around $69 retail with a single toggle faceplate. They're very shallow, but the edges are quite square. Because of this, some have reported difficulties fitting these switches into junction boxes. I've used these switches with new and old junction boxes and have had no issues so far. They're a tight fit on the older boxes though and I may run into some size problems as I continue to build out my UPB installation. These switches can be fitted with single, double or 4 button face plates. They are high quality, reliable switches but I do miss the dimmer bar. I've not had a single issue with my UPB installation which includes 5 US11-30s, 3 lamp modules and a UMI-32 IO module. UPB is about twice as fast as X10. However, the Insteon protocol is well named. If it works as advertised, protocol induced delays should be unnoticable.

 

[bfisher]

My existing home has shallow boxes, and the UPB switches are a tight fit... but they do go in. You have to be very careful to make sure you don't pop out the LED indicator (a feature that also disables UPB for that switch) when you are sliding it in. Also, don't screw the switches in too tight.

 

[markthomas]

My current house is full of X-10 switches, mostly Switchlinc and PCS. The PCS switches are far higher in build quality, feel, and reliability.

This is probably what has me leaning toward UPB over Insteon right now. The WAF hurdles keep getting higher with every Switchlinc problem.

Of course, the SAI/Web Mountain and HAI switches have a different manufacturer than the PCS ones. They do seem to have a high build quality so far. Only time will tell about certain problems though, like some of my heavily used Switchlincs which had the plastic toggle piece break at the hinge. I just replace them with PCS switches 'cause I don't want to have to mess with them again.

 

[kwilcox]

FWIW SAI makes the web mountain switches, so there are really only 3 UPB switch manufacturers. Build quality from all of them are supposed to be excellent. I can't speak to the PCS and HAI switches but the SAI US11-30's are beautifully constructed with solid aluminum bodies and high quality faceplates. The aluminum body is probably also what gives them their 1000 watt rating in a single gang box.

 

[ChrisWalker]

The aluminum body is probably also what gives them their 1000 watt rating in a single gang box.

Simply Automated seems to have their act together pretty well. As an item of interest, they actually de-rated those switches to 900 watts when they found out that 1,000 watts could actually melt the plastic j-box (or something like that). I hear they're now working on a "true" 1,000 watt+ version.

You have to admire a company that is willing to be honest with their customers about stuff like that.

Chris