Sacedog's House Wiring Project

Here is the finished secret door (you can see CT on the monitor in the background :) :
Den_Door.JPG


This is the latch:
Latch.JPG


This is the hinge; there are 4 of these:
Hinge.JPG


This is the leveler at the bottom of the door. When the door closes, the bottom rolls up on this adjustable wheel. It is there so that the door can always stay plumb. So far, it hasn't moved a bit, and I have put a decent amount of weight on it.
Leveler.JPG
 
This is the latch
That looks like fine cabinetry hardware; my Home Depot clearance latch needs that for a replacement. No wonder it's ineffective.

This is the leveler at the bottom of the door. When the door closes, the bottom rolls up on this adjustable wheel. It is there so that the door can always stay plumb. So far, it hasn't moved a bit, and I have put a decent amount of weight on it.
Ah-hah! Nice touch.
 
These guys may have what you are looking for:
http://hiddenpassageway.com/

Doug

I don't keep anything in the 'hidden room' of value (except the telephone and baseband home runs - will move them eventually), and nobody is out to get me (maybe I should be more paranoid), so I don't think I need that level of security, and custom quality. But I love that room under the stairs that lift up!

Maybe I should be worried about someone stealing my copper cables. :)
 
Had some q's on the Russound:

1. Combination CAV/CAM, together? How separate are the systems? Doorbell interrupt working on both?
2. Compoint up and running? Happy with it? Seems kind of repetitively redundant. Are they integrated well, in your opinion?

The systems will be tied together using Rnet. I got the CAV, because I thought I would use it for Composite video distribution, but I went with Sage instead. I might still use it for distribution of the composite security camera signal. The Compoint is what interrupts the audio, and it works awesomely. The Compoint can work with any audio solution (Russound, Nuvo, or just plain centralized amp and volume controls). The speaker wires from the central source go to the Compoint keypad first, then from the keypad to the speakers in the same room. During normal audio operation, the Compoint keypad just loops the audio signal...when the doorbell is rung, or somebody used the intercom, it mutes the distributed audio, and outputs the doorbell or intercom audio over the in room speakers. The sound quality is amazing! It's like the person is in the same room with you.

I'll upload a few pics of the finished door, and the hardware they used in a bit.

I've been strongly considering Russound for distributed audio, and our intercom system has never worked (installed 1994, bought the house 1.5 yrs ago); only the doorbell works.

The CAM is slightly limited compared with the CAV, in terms of intercom integration - limited 'paging' through CAM, per specs:

http://www.russound.com/pdf/datasheets/SystCompChart.pdf

I'm unsure exactly what this paging feature means.

Also, I was unaware that RNET can physically connect a CAM and CAV - thanks. I'll probably purchase 1 or the other for the finished basement soon, and expand to the main floors in the future (when we have painting, and superficial kitchen renovation, done). I feel like the biggest obstacle to running cable wherever I want is the painting - never looks right unless the whole room (or wall) is painted.

Thanks for the photos!
 
Can you share some pointers that your Vacuum installer gave you? also any pictures of your window contacts would be great, i am having a tough time with pvc windows that have bug screens. no clearance for contact behind perimeter of screen where it needs to be.
 
So, it has been a while since I had posted to this thread, and I had received some questions regarding my install, so here is goes.

I have a total of 108 zones on my Elk M1G, which include wired door and window contacts, motion sensors, glass break sensors, water sensors, heat sensors, CO2 sensors, a gas sensor, and a smoke detector (only had to wire one to notify the Elk). I wired the 3 garage doors, 2 fireplaces, and automated water valve to relays on the M1RB. I also have some elk thermometers wired in. I have the Ethernet expander both for remote access, and for CQC access. I have 3 serial expanders, but am only using one of them. Hooked up to the serial expander is the protocol adapter for the 3 Aprilaire thermostats. I control those through the Elk, and have access to them through CQC. Hooked up to the bus expansion boards are all of the zone expanders, 2 KP2 keypads, and 1 KPAS keypad.

All of the zones are wired into 66 blocks in Can 1, then wired to the zone expander boards or other locations on the Elk in Can 2 using 25-pair telco cables. All of the wires that are punched down to the 66 blocks are stranded wire, which works great, as long as you pay attention to your punchdowns. I actually punched down the wires, then pushed it in further using a tiny flat blade screwdriver, then punched it down one more time to trim off any excess. It took a bit longer than wiring directly to the Elk, but I think it looks cleaner, and allows for easy changes in the future.

For powered contacts (motions, water sensors, etc.) I used terminal blocks, connected to an Elk PD9, after carefully calculating the power requirements. The PD9 is fed from a 1A power supply in Can 3 (the power can).

In Can 1, I also have a Leviton phone board, and a couple Channel Vision splitters and an CV amplifier for my cable signal. I also have the Aprilaire protocol adapter stored in that can.

Can 3 contains all of my power and batteries for the other cans. I currently am powering the Elk M1, Elk M1XEP, the Elk P624 (which supplies the PD9 in Can 1), the Aprilaire protocol adapter, and the Channel Vision cable amp. I also have an Elk P412 in the can, which I will be firing up soon to replace the P624. I'll need a little over 1A to run the automated water valve.

I have a fourth can too, that has Cat5e wires from every light switch box bundled up in it. I was originally going to use ALC lighting, and am still wored for it, but decided to go with UPB instead. From an automation standpoint, I just felt that there was a lot more support for UPB, plus my wire really did not like the ALC switches. So far, I have been very happy with UPB (15 switches so far).

On the rack, I have my dedicated Sage server on the left, and my HA server on the right; both running XP Pro. The HA server runs CQC, the AverMedia NVR software, the NComputing software for the touchscreen, and serves my network storage. Above that are all of my patch panels. I punched down network (blue), intercom (yellow), audio control (orange), cameras (black), and serial ports (green) to RJ45 jacks. I punched down my composite video runs to the Leviton Cat5e-to-video jacks. I punched down all of my distributed audio speaker runs to bananna jacks. I also ran speaker cable for my HT speakers, in case I ever wanted to move my HT equipment to the closet. Above the patch panels is my gigabit switch. Above that is my Cable router (phone and Internet), and network router. I then have a rack mounted surge strip, which is plugged into a UPS behind the rack. On the next shelf up are the two squeezebox receivers which are controlled through CQC (well, one is now, and the second will be soon), the serial server, and behind those are the two Compoint hubs for the intercom and doorbells. Above that is the CAV and then the CAM, and then one more rack mounted surge strip that is plugged into the wall (no battery backup). I have a keyboard, mouse, and LCD monitor in the shelves to the right of the rack, and use a 2-port KVM to switch between the 2 servers.

I still have a lot of items on my to-do list, such as getting the heat and smoke sensors hooked up, getting the water sesnors hooked up, getting the internal Elk speakers hooked up, and a lot of programming in CQC. I still need to install a rollup door contact on my storage door, and create a seperate zone for that, and have 2 contacts that need to get fixed. I also have two new 2TB drives to replace the two 1TB drives in my Sage server that I need to get in. It seems like anytime I check something off my list, I add two more things.

Anyway, pics of each of the cans and the rack are in the album Wire Termination Progress in my Showcase. Please feel free to post any questions on my setup, and I will get an answer to you.

http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php...r&user=2974
 
Just looked at the pictures of your wire termination and cans...i hate to think about the amount of time you got in that...i thought mine was pretty organized..but yours takes the cake..
 
Where did you pick up those spacers? Or, what are they made from, and where did you get it? ;)

Elevate the slotted wiring duct...great idea! Finding room for the vertical runs has been a conundrum. Dan, and someone else IIRC - might have been Steve, attached the wiring duct to the lateral sides of the enclosure, facing inward.
 
Just looked at the pictures of your wire termination and cans...i hate to think about the amount of time you got in that...i thought mine was pretty organized..but yours takes the cake..

Yeah, I have been in the house for almost a year now, and I still have work left to do. Granted, I spent every spare hour for 5 months working on the front yard. ;) I tried to get things installed in order of what I thought we would use the most, keeping in mind my wife's wishes for what should work.
 
Where did you pick up those spacers? Or, what are they made from, and where did you get it? ;)

Elevate the slotted wiring duct...great idea! Finding room for the vertical runs has been a conundrum. Dan, and someone else IIRC - might have been Steve, attached the wiring duct to the lateral sides of the enclosure, facing inward.

I got all of those spacers from Home Depot, and they were made of plastic (or nylon). I found them in the screws/nuts/bolts isle, down in the "speciality" pull out drawers (the ones that have all of the weird washers, nylon screws, etc.).

I would like to put vertical duct up and down the sides, but I found it difficult to work in when I did that. I have seen the pics of the wire duct run down the sides of the cans, and it looks very nice; so I must have been doing it wrong. :p
 
I did the same thing for my wiring, except I used 110 blocks instead of 66 blocks. I have a 300 pair block in the main panel with all of my sensors terminated to it, and then I have a 96 pair cross-connect to the garage, and I'm doing another 96 pair to the attic.
 
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