poor man's garden sprinkler

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Neil;

I meant that you plug the 24 volt AC wall wart into the appliance module and control the valve that way. With the Elk you can just use the onboard relay, or use one of the outputs and drive an Elk small relay and control wall wart voltage that way.

Be aware that the valve (I'm assuming) needs 24 volts AC so you have to supply that source, then somehow switch it with your automation system using methods I described above.

Do you want to control one valve with your Elk? If so with what output? If not, with an appliance module/X-10.

If you give me some specifics I'll try to come up with a schematic to help you out

BraveSirRobbin,

I'm really not good in this field but I can follow instructions and is brave enough to make sure I'm doing it safely. I have not done any automation using my ELK so I'm really lost. I'm not familiar with the components like the wall wart and previously appliance modeul. I know what I need to buy but I want to make sure that what I will buy is correct.

So here, I just need a simple way to build to control the electric sprinkler valve that I will connect to the faucet outside. I saw the 2 wires personally on the sprinkler valve when I went to Menards yesterday. But I don't know where those 2 wires should be connected. This is what I saw yesterday at Menards.

http://www.orbitonline.com/products/Valves/02/16/04/643/

Since I have 2 faucets outside, I'm thinking of putting 4 electric sprinkler valves(2 for each faucets). So, I will make it somewhat similar to the picture below

I'm so happy that you will help me with the schematic.

Thank you very much again!

Neil

 

[politics123]

Neil;

I meant that you plug the 24 volt AC wall wart into the appliance module and control the valve that way. With the Elk you can just use the onboard relay, or use one of the outputs and drive an Elk small relay and control wall wart voltage that way.

Be aware that the valve (I'm assuming) needs 24 volts AC so you have to supply that source, then somehow switch it with your automation system using methods I described above.

Do you want to control one valve with your Elk? If so with what output? If not, with an appliance module/X-10.

If you give me some specifics I'll try to come up with a schematic to help you out

BraveSirRobbin,

I'm really not good in this field but I can follow instructions and is brave enough to make sure I'm doing it safely. I have not done any automation using my ELK so I'm really lost. I'm not familiar with the components like the wall wart and previously appliance modeul. I know what I need to buy but I want to make sure that what I will buy is correct.

So here, I just need a simple way to build to control the electric sprinkler valve that I will connect to the faucet outside. I saw the 2 wires personally on the sprinkler valve when I went to Menards yesterday. But I don't know where those 2 wires should be connected. This is what I saw yesterday at Menards.

http://www.orbitonline.com/products/Valves/02/16/04/643/

Since I have 2 faucets outside, I'm thinking of putting 4 electric sprinkler valves(2 for each faucets). So, I will make it somewhat similar to the picture below

I'm so happy that you will help me with the schematic.

Thank you very much again!

Neil

Neil --

Let me translate, if this is too basic, let me know.... but I wanted to get rid of all the "tech-ease". An X10 appliance module gets plugged into an outlet and itself has a plug. Using power-line messaging, the X10 appliance module turns on whatever is plugged into it. Normally, you might plug in a table lamp. When you tell the X10 aplpiance module to turn on (ans assuming you left the table-lamp "on") the lamp lights up. When you send an "off" signal, the X10 removes power to the lamp, and it turns off.

In this case, a walwart is a power-supply to the valves. If you look at your elk, it comes with a 24v AC power supply to power the ELK. Look at the valve and determine whether it requires 24v AC (like the ELK) or 24v DC. You will then need to purchase an appropriate power supply.

To bench test, wire the valve to the power supply (safely) and then plug in the power supply. The valve should open (usually, its "power on opens valve" to protect you from power outtages letting you water your garden for 3 straight days!). When this works, you're all set... except for the need to have to un-plug the power supply (or turn off the outlet by lightswitch) every time that you want to stop watering.... that's where the X10 appliance module comes into play.

So, you connect the power supply to the X10 appliance module. Instead of you having to physically throw the light-switch, you send the on or off command via X10.

There should be two wires from the valve. And two wires from a normal power-supply. Only two possible ways to connect Hopefully, the valve comes with a schematic... if not, guess. Apply power, determine if the valve opened. If not, try reversing the wires. So, let's talk about cost: worst-case, you just ruined the valve by wiring it backwards... out $13. Not bad, considering that you could spend upwards of $300 for automated valves!

Caution: X10 is sometimes unreliable. I recommend sending the "off" signal multiple times in case it didn't make it through or having some other back-up method to shut-off.

 

[mustangcoupe]

I beleive (but double check...... dont trust me) the valves are 24 VAC.

If you wanted to only use the elk

you would need a elk relay module. The stand alone elk will not work for this application. you would wire up the relay module to an output off the elk main board as described in the instructions and then connect one wire of the wall wart to the valve, and the second set of wired would get connected to the relay module terminals. You would then write rules to turn it on and off.....

You can (and should) also wire in a rain sensor (also purchased from the local hardware store) to a zone input on the elk. usually these have 3 wires and can be configured in NO or NC configuration. set your elk zone accordingly and set it to a non alarm zone type. And in the rules check if this is tripped or not before turning on the sprinkler (r turn it off if it is already on) then you wont be watering in the rain....

I can draw this up if you need more visual information.

 

[roussell]

Here's a couple of pictures that may help. I set this up so some of my wife's flowers would get watered while we're on vacation. It's a X10 applicance module with an old laptop power supply plugged into it. You can use just about anything though as long as it has around 24 volts out. The supply I'm using has only 20 but seems to work well. Doorbell transformers also work well for this as the are usually exactly 24 VAC out and 120 VAC in.

Anyway, plug in the transformer into the applicance module and the plug (cut/strip/wrap/tape) the output of the power supply into the sprinkler module. That's it. Use your HA app of choice to schedule the applicance module to come on.

I don't have an Elk yet, so I can't help you there. Although if you already have X10 stuff running, you can get this going in about an hour or less.

On the plumbing side, as suggested, just buy the needed parts to connect the 3/4" pipe connections to the garden hose. One suggestion; use brass connectors if you can find them. I started out with the PVC ones and I had several leaks from the part that connected to the faucet. I switched to brass and haven't had a problem since.

Hope this helps,
Terry

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

There should be two wires from the valve. And two wires from a normal power-supply. Only two possible ways to connect Hopefully, the valve comes with a schematic... if not, guess. Apply power, determine if the valve opened. If not, try reversing the wires.
Caution: X10 is sometimes unreliable. I recommend sending the "off" signal multiple times in case it didn't make it through or having some other back-up method to shut-off.

Actually the valves are 24 volts AC so you can't wire the solenoid (on the valves) backwards.

What I was trying to get at was if you wanted to send a control to your valve with an X-10 command or via an Elk output (turn an output on and off to control the valve). Like politics123 said, you might want to think about the reliability of using X-10. If your system is pretty reliable, just send the multiple X-10 off commands as extra insurance as he also mentioned.

If you are using Elk "rules" to send on and off commands AND can get wires from your sprinkler valves to the Elk, I would suggest using the Elk's outputs and relays. The relays will act like a "switch" turning the wall wart's 24 volts AC on and off to your valves. You can use an Elk M1RB relay expansion board or purchase individual relays (one per valve) and connect them to the Elk's outputs. I would suggest using THESE relays if you choose that route.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

WOW! I really understand it better now. You guys ROCK!!!! The pictures were of tremendous help to me too. I don't have any more major issues. I can go either route, either ELK's relay or X10. And yes, last year, I heard people having issues with X10's reliability. However, looks like I'm going with pure ELK solution. Continue reading

I looked at my first floor cabinet and I have an M1XIN board. I have only used 9 inputs there. That means, I still have 7 left. And I'm glad I have 2 CAT5e cable waiting. That means, I have 8 pairs that I can use.

Based from what BraveSirRobbin said above, I can use my M1XIN board. What about the wire gauge in my CAT5e? I think, it's 22gauge right? So, can I use this CAT5e and connect to the sprinkler valve? And also, I'm worried about the wire being swapped. Which wire from the valve goes to my free M1XIN input zone?

Thanks!

Neil

 

[WayneW]

Based from what BraveSirRobbin said above, I can use my M1XIN board.

Nope, an M1XIN is an INput board. You need to use Elk output (from the main board or an expansion board, such as M1XOVR or similar) with a relay.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

My bad, I didn't scroll on the link that BraveSirRobbin gave to me. I will buy ELK-912 Relay module then.

So from the picture above, we see the labels like +, -, NO, NC and COM. How do I connect this 912 relay module to my M1? What pin on the 912 goes to which pin on the M1? What about the sprinkler valve, where does one wire connect to the 912?

Thanks again!

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Here is a schematic based on what I believe you are trying to accomplish with the parts (and price range) you specified. Keep in mind there are many, many ways to accomplish this task. I'm just trying to get you started with some ideas.

There are some items you need to insure:

1. Based on my experience with the solenoid valves you will need a one-amp in line fuse. Use something like THIS for the fuse holder with a one amp fuse to match.

2. I would run a multi-pair wire bundle with a gauge (thickness) which matches the wire coming from the solenoid valve. The hardware store has this type of cable available.

3. Your AC adapter (Wall Wart) has enough capability to drive at least an amp (see your Orbit valve documentation on how much current a valve will draw).

4. You should only turn one valve on at a time or else you may exceed the fuse rating and AC adapter's capability.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I quickly drew this schematic up so if anyone sees anything wrong, please let me know.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Here is a schematic based on what I believe you are trying to accomplish with the parts (and price range) you specified. Keep in mind there are many, many ways to accomplish this task. I'm just trying to get you started with some ideas.

There are some items you need to insure:

1. Based on my experience with the solenoid valves you will need a one-amp in line fuse. Use something like THIS for the fuse holder with a one amp fuse to match.

2. I would run a multi-pair wire bundle with a gauge (thickness) which matches the wire coming from the solenoid valve. The hardware store has this type of cable available.

3. Your AC adapter (Wall Wart) has enough capability to drive at least an amp (see your Orbit valve documentation on how much current a valve will draw).

4. You should only turn one valve on at a time or else you may exceed the fuse rating and AC adapter's capability.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I quickly drew this schematic up so if anyone sees anything wrong, please let me know.

This is awesome, BraveSirRobbin!!!

For now, I will keep installation questions if it comes up in my head. I will buy the necessary parts. Once I get all the parts, I'll do my best to follow your instructions. So far, it's now easy for me.

I'll keep you posted guys!

I just don't know if Orbit is a good brand. Someone earlier mentioned that Lowes also sells sprinkler valve. I'll try to drop by at that store tonight. Do you guys have any thoughts about Orbit brand? Or should I go with the one Lowes sells?

Thank you very much again!

Neil

 

[electron]

Orbit is one of the more popular brands when it comes to these things, so you are good with that unit. I even use one of these to power my halloween props (using it as an air valve), they are great little units.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I have had many, many brand of sprinkler valve and as long as you don't have any debris in your system they all seem to work the same.

I use a WGL Designs Relay-8 unit to control my sprinkler systems as I like their "time out" feature which will send an off command internally (within the unit) after a set amount of minutes has passed.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I have had many, many brand of sprinkler valve and as long as you don't have any debris in your system they all seem to work the same.

I use a WGL Designs Relay-8 unit to control my sprinkler systems as I like their "time out" feature which will send an off command internally (within the unit) after a set amount of minutes has passed.

What are cons of using the diagram you drew earlier?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

What are cons of using the diagram you drew earlier?

Well, not sure if there are really any cons with that schematic. I was just referring to the system I was using in lieu to worrying about receiving an X-10 OFF command (wrote a How-To on it). As you are hardwired to the Elk outputs directly, you shouldn't run into any problems (at least that I can see).

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

What are cons of using the diagram you drew earlier?

Well, not sure if there are really any cons with that schematic. I was just referring to the system I was using in lieu to worrying about receiving an X-10 OFF command (wrote a How-To on it). As you are hardwired to the Elk outputs directly, you shouldn't run into any problems (at least that I can see).

BAM!

With all the wirings you guys taught me last year, this ELK never gave me any headaches at all. It is very solid and very stable. Although, 3 weeks ago, water from faucet outside backfired due to bad garden hose. Water traveled outside the copper pipe in the basement. My ELK was sitting on a table. Water drip exactly to the zones. LOL. At 3am, it alarmed that even disarming it won't allow it. I got contacted by NextAlarm. I told the guy, I'll turn off my system since it's a false alarm. After few days, when I was sure that it was really dry, I turned it back on. Here I am again, very ecstatic that I bought ELK. My ELK just wanted a shower that morning. HEHEHE!