Estimate contractor pre-wire cost

[felixrosbergen]

Hi All,

What can i expect to pay extra when having a new contruction 2500 square foot home, 4 bedroom prewired by the contractor with:
- 2 drops of belden combo cable (2x cat5e and 2xRG5QS) to all 4 bedroom
- total of about 5 additional drop between kitchen, living room, family room, etc

- smoke/PIR/glassbreak in every room
- sensors on all external doors

Everything homerunned to a wiring closet.

I'm just looking for a ballpark figure. $5000 / $10000 / $20000?

Likely i cant do the pre-wire myself since the house i being built be a developer.

I would do all the terminations myself after i move into the house so that should not be included in the cost.

Also should i mandate that all connections be tested or would that add tremendous cost?

Any input greatly appreciated

 

[SnyperBob]

It all depends on what your developer charges for each item. I think mine was like $75 for each additional TV and phone run.

I'm not sure if they'd charge you double if you had them run that combo cable. Saying that they didn't charge you double for the combo cable ones, and rounding each run up to $100, I would say you're looking at about $1300 for your cat5e and rg6 drops. ($1300 = 8 runs of combo, plus 5 additional drops multiplied by $100). You're looking at $2300 if they charge you for every termination

I believe the electricians did my phone and TV runs.

I'm not sure, but I would assume they would sub-contract out the security portion of what you want. You may be able to work with your developer and see if they'll allow you to contract a security company come in to do your security install. That may save you a few bucks

I really have no clue what a security company or developer would charge for a setup. I've never priced any of that because I'm doing it all myself

 

[AnthonyZ]

Were you in CO and a client of mine, you'd be looking at approx $5500-$7500 (I'd need to see plans). No, you couldn't demand certification/testing as you are terminating. In other words, we would not terminate in order to test then remove the bits and pieces and leave it for you to complete. In my case, I'd be completing the entire job and offering a warranty, walking away from the job entirely or pulling the cable and offering no warranty whatsoever.

 

[Ranger Digital]

If you get a bid for $20k and like it, I will personally fly up there and do it for $18k and even buy pizza, lol.

It looks like 40 or so runs/drops? I would expect the bill to be 3000 to 5k. 5k would be 125 per run which sound pretty high to just run wire and do nothing else.

 

[CollinR]

Were you in CO and a client of mine, you'd be looking at approx $5500-$7500 (I'd need to see plans). No, you couldn't demand certification/testing as you are terminating. In other words, we would not terminate in order to test then remove the bits and pieces and leave it for you to complete. In my case, I'd be completing the entire job and offering a warranty, walking away from the job entirely or pulling the cable and offering no warranty whatsoever.

x2 although I wouldn't certify I would test for open/short just as a quality measure, it would effect your cost.

You might also have troubles in your area finding someone who will prewire smokes for a DIY install, I don't think I would allow that even though in this state it is legal for the homeowner to install them.

What sucks about fire is everyone gets sued.

 

[IVB]

In NorCal, where everything is artificially inflated (house prices, salaries, contractor costs), a retrofit HV run costs $150 a pop just for the electrician incl outlet plate. That's obviously much harder than new construction.

For the paltry savings & lack of warranty that self-terminations involves, i'd just let the dude do the terminations. You can always reterminate with another type of end if you want later, but to have the guy do 95% of the work and leave yourself 95% of the hassle has very little ROI.

 

[felixrosbergen]

Were you in CO and a client of mine, you'd be looking at approx $5500-$7500 (I'd need to see plans). No, you couldn't demand certification/testing as you are terminating. In other words, we would not terminate in order to test then remove the bits and pieces and leave it for you to complete. In my case, I'd be completing the entire job and offering a warranty, walking away from the job entirely or pulling the cable and offering no warranty whatsoever.

Would the $5500-$7500 include the terminations and presumably also the cable itself? Terminaitons would be wallplates on one end and pathpanel in 19" rack at the other end.

If prewiring smokes is a problem then i guess they can put the smoken themselves in as well. Not sure how the Elk end would if somebody installs the smokes. I presume they woudl want to install some sort of system to go with it.

We a main contractor/developer really subcontract out security of i don't want them to connect it to the elk? Would they warranty it if they don't terminate it on the elk. I gues i could have them put in all the sensors and terminate all on a block in the wiring closet.

Any of the above sound sensible? I guess this is one of the downfall of buying from a devleoper versus having it fully custom built.

If the basement stay unfinished (except for wiring room) and the ceilign stays unfinished woudl adding wiring myself be much of a problem? I can pretty much reach anything from on the 2nd floor from the ceiling and everything on 1st floor from basement. This all assuming the developed puts in 2 2" PVC pipers from basement to ceiling.

 

[SnyperBob]

If the basement stay unfinished (except for wiring room) and the ceilign stays unfinished woudl adding wiring myself be much of a problem? I can pretty much reach anything from on the 2nd floor from the ceiling and everything on 1st floor from basement. This all assuming the developed puts in 2 2" PVC pipers from basement to ceiling.

You would need to overkill it if you're planning on doing wiring your self. Especially if you are doing to be doing the wiring after you move in and dry wall is up.

By overkill it, I mean having them put 5 or more 2" PVC pipes from basement to ceiling. Usually most people run all their wire before drywall, and still have developers put in two PVC pipes for future wiring. My main trunk of wiring for just my upstairs rooms is bigger than the diameter of a baseball. I don't think I could fit it all in two 2" pipes.

Adding wire to your first floor from your basement will be easy tho. That's how I pretty much did my house, drill up from below, inside the walls.

If they will let you run any low voltage wire yourself during construction, jump on the opportunity! I'm not sure how your developer does it, but mine blew in about 10 inches of insulation in my attic after they drywalled. It was way easier running the wires without having to deal with that insulation in the attic. I have been up there and run some stuff, I practically need a snow shovel to dig out where I want to drill holes because of the damn insulation....

 

[beelzerob]

In NorCal, where everything is artificially inflated (house prices, salaries, contractor costs)

I thought for sure you were going to add "women" to that list....but I guess that's SoCal, huh? :lol:

 

[opie]

Were you in CO and a client of mine, you'd be looking at approx $5500-$7500 (I'd need to see plans). No, you couldn't demand certification/testing as you are terminating. In other words, we would not terminate in order to test then remove the bits and pieces and leave it for you to complete. In my case, I'd be completing the entire job and offering a warranty, walking away from the job entirely or pulling the cable and offering no warranty whatsoever.

Would the $5500-$7500 include the terminations and presumably also the cable itself? Terminaitons would be wallplates on one end and pathpanel in 19" rack at the other end.

If prewiring smokes is a problem then i guess they can put the smoken themselves in as well. Not sure how the Elk end would if somebody installs the smokes. I presume they woudl want to install some sort of system to go with it.

We a main contractor/developer really subcontract out security of i don't want them to connect it to the elk? Would they warranty it if they don't terminate it on the elk. I gues i could have them put in all the sensors and terminate all on a block in the wiring closet.

Any of the above sound sensible? I guess this is one of the downfall of buying from a devleoper versus having it fully custom built.

If the basement stay unfinished (except for wiring room) and the ceilign stays unfinished woudl adding wiring myself be much of a problem? I can pretty much reach anything from on the 2nd floor from the ceiling and everything on 1st floor from basement. This all assuming the developed puts in 2 2" PVC pipers from basement to ceiling.

The big problem with the smokes (at least in my area) is they will need to be working before you can get your CO inspection. The Builder may have issues with you doing any work on the home before that point. One way around this is to go ahead and have the Electrician run 120V smokes and than do one of two things. 1) Have the low voltage contractor run a second set of smokes for monitoring or 2) Some members here have run fire wire to the closest 120V smoke and used the ESL 350CX which has a relay that closes when the tandem bus relay closes. There is more info in this thread. I am not a big fan of the second method because the rest of the smokes are not supervised by the panel. An advantage to having two runs of smokes is if you take your panel with you, the original 120V smokes still meet code without the alarm installed.

This issue can turn into a "TASTE GREAT! - LESS FILLING!" type of thing but I just wanted to give you some more options to think about. A good LV contractor can be a big help in this area too.

I also agree with most of the pricing above. Without seeing plans, I would estimate in the $4,500- $6,000 range for this project. That would be wire, installation, trim out with wall plates for the 2+2 and basic testing (not certification). Like Anthony, if I were to cable only, I would not offer any warranty.

 

[beelzerob]

2) Some members here have run fire wire to the closest 120V smoke and used the ESL 350CX which has a relay that closes when the tandem bus relay closes. There is more info in this thread. I am not a big fan of the second method because the rest of the smokes are not supervised by the panel.

If monitoring all the smokes is your goal, then why not use the 350CC instead...it closes the relay when that particular smoke goes off, not via the tandem line...then add 1 350CX to the chain, and you've got individual and tandem monitoring.

Of course, if somewhere above, it was stated that you couldn't run wire to each smoke...then disregard. :lol:

 

[beelzerob]

By the way...let me say, MavRic, how happy I am you made this thread. I need to print it out so I can show the wife that all our pain for the past few weeks (and continuing tonight) has been worth it! Oh the money we've saved!! (of course, if I push it, she might tell me that we would have saved even more $$$ if I didn't have this hobby....) :lol:

 

[opie]

2) Some members here have run fire wire to the closest 120V smoke and used the ESL 350CX which has a relay that closes when the tandem bus relay closes. There is more info in this thread. I am not a big fan of the second method because the rest of the smokes are not supervised by the panel.

If monitoring all the smokes is your goal, then why not use the 350CC instead...it closes the relay when that particular smoke goes off, not via the tandem line...then add 1 350CX to the chain, and you've got individual and tandem monitoring.

Of course, if somewhere above, it was stated that you couldn't run wire to each smoke...then disregard. :lol:

I guess, I wasn't clear. You can do what you suggested but what I am referring to are the supervision features of low volt smoke detectors such as removal, wiring issues, clean me (on 2-wire) etc... Not to say you can't accomplish some of this with using all smokes with relays but now you're getting creative and that's not always a good idea with a life safety system. The main point I am trying to make is no matter how you accomplish it, I think it's good to now when there is a problem with one of the smokes. Proper maintenance goes a long way but we all know that usually doesn't happen.

 

[CollinR]

He is talking about real deal system grade sensors that also have 110v connects, they can be used with existing smokes or by themselves depending on the part number used. :lol: uber cool but more $

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

The big problem with the smokes (at least in my area) is they will need to be working before you can get your CO inspection. The Builder may have issues with you doing any work on the home before that point. One way around this is to go ahead and have the Electrician run 120V smokes and than do one of two things. 1) Have the low voltage contractor run a second set of smokes for monitoring or 2) Some members here have run fire wire to the closest 120V smoke and used the ESL 350CX which has a relay that closes when the tandem bus relay closes. There is more info in this thread. I am not a big fan of the second method because the rest of the smokes are not supervised by the panel. An advantage to having two runs of smokes is if you take your panel with you, the original 120V smokes still meet code without the alarm installed.

Or you could run 120 VAC smokes that have contact closure outputs like the Gentex ones.