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that worked!!

Okay, let me try that. I hadn't thought of excluding something I couldn't even see.

I need to set it back to factory. My controller died and I want to put everything on a new system. These are the only devices I can't reset.

Not sure where to put this.   I have a few Cooper Zwave recptacles that I need to reset, and I can't find any literaure that explains the process.   I've tried every combination of button pushing and folding that I can think of.   Can someone help?

"If you want to add a door lock/deadbolt, you will need [some] beaming devices to allow the lock to communicate [via mesh] back to the controller."   While I understood I needed some to control the locks, I still didn't grasp that to beam to the locks, they needed to essentially have an unbroken...

This is what confuses me. I keep getting conflicting data, or maybe just unclear data.

Okay, so based on your comments, I don't need all of the devices to be of the beaming type, just the ones near my locks. Which by the way are Kwikset.   It sounds as instant status may be a good thing though. How do you determine which devices are instant status?

Do all of my Zwave devices need to be cabable of beaming, if I need any of them to be beaming?   I read alot about beaming and instant status, but I still haven't connected the dots. I can't determine if beaming is something a particular device does, or if it's a protocol that is transmitted...

Thanks! EDIT: Never mind this> Do I have to record the text or can the system speak phonetically?    I am assuming I would use one of the miscellaneous messages, like VM239....to send the output to the speaker, but I can't figure out how to retrieve the RFID info.

I have the Elk RFID devices installed and working as they should. Now is there a way to program a rule to announce the user when a card is used? Like "Clay is home" etc...   It seems there should be a way to access the text for a rule, but I am not seeing it.

Okay guys. Problem solved.   The connection at the panel is different than what I was expecting it to be. I misunderstood/misread the wiring diagram. I wired each switch to successive pins. This is incorrect. You place TWO wires in one terminal. I come from an industrial electronic back ground...

I had the switches wired to a terminal block in the basement, and a single pair to the control panel. Now I have a 3 pairs at the control panel. No EOL resistors anywhere. Total resistance across three switches measured currently at the panel is ≈1.1ohms. My meter measures inconsistently when...

I set my Fluke meter on the continuity position and listen for the beep when I have electrons flowing. Is there another way? Seriously though, this is a controller question as I am playing with the system, not protecting my home currently.

I had three reed door switches in serial connected to zone 1. Everything worked fine.   I recently seperated them into individual zone connections. 1, 2 ,3 etc. 1 for each door. However only zone 1 works. If I check the switches with a ohm meter I have a continuity at the panel on each switch...

I have my M1XEP back so I will attempt this.

Thanks, this seemingly is random, and spaced quite a bit of time apart. Actually far enough that I forget about it until it happens again. I wish there was a way to capture events and log them. It doesn't show under the standard event log. This is really annoying for now. hahaha

I checked and I have the phone line disabled in the globals section as best I can tell. Is there another place to look?

There is a relay that triggers on my M1G that I cannot firure out what is causing it. This system is in my bedroom and I can hear it at night. I can't see anything that is turned on and I have no rules set up currently. Any thoughts? Clay

Got a call from ELK. It had a bad Digi module. They repaired it and it's on it's way back! Should see it Monday. Cool! Clay PS received it, plugged it in, scanned. No problems. Worked like a charm.

Yeah I've done multiple cables and everything else suggested here. The light was the thing that finally convinced me it was in fact, not working properly. I just wish I had paid attention to that first. :) I do have one more question though; when it's connected to the M1G through the serial...