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Turns out I had a loose connection in there.  I did manage to find a spot where I could remove a twist cap and use a 3-port connector. I haven't tried getting all that to fit in the box, yet.  It's going to be tight.   I appreciate you guys letting me bounce ideas off of you.  And, the pointers...

Yeah, I bought a bag 'o 3-port AlumiConn connectors.  But, I forgot I had them until I was done.  Partly because, in my programming career I've learned to Make It Right Before You Make It Better.  I was trying to be very simple.  If I had a twist cap, replaced it with a twist cap.  If I had an...

I'm finally ready to try my Z-Wave switch, (here's the manual) and it's not working.  Here's a picture.   In addition to the switch, I got new twist caps, anti-oxidant, copper wiring, and AlumiConn connectors.  In this one fixture, I've installed copper pigtails, and all new gooey twist caps...

I understand.  That's what I've found in my research, so far.   Everything I've opened up and looked at is screw-on terminals.  I haven't seen any sign of anti-oxidant.  The wires look like bare metal to the naked eye.   I know that aluminum oxide is pretty much the same color as aluminum, and...

Thanks for the double check.   I'm currently reading up on the aluminum wiring thing.  I had heard about concerns with aluminum wiring several years ago.  But, the impression I came away with at the time was that it was generally safe, unless it used undersized wiring, was greatly overloaded...

Nothing substantial has been done to the wiring in this house since it was built.  So, the standard in '73 is how it all stands, right now.  I haven't seen any copper pigtails on anything I've opened up in the past.   Drake

Okay.  I have verified with the multi-meter that that center cable, attached to the blue lead, does, indeed go to the fixture.   I also spotted, farther down on Wiring Diagrams for Household Switches, "Controlling Two or More Light Fixtures," which looks like my situation.  I pasted in the top...

What had me uncomfortable is that this is different than what I had been told to expect.  I was expecting the source to go to the fixture, and then a loop to go to the switch, with the tape on the white to show that it's hot.  I understand how this arrangement works.  But I was under the...

@RAL, yes, I have a switch to control those.  But, I don't have neutral to the switch.  At least, I'm pretty sure.  That's been one of my big issues with trying to update my hardware.   @Sparkman1  Thanks.  I've done some more research.  I think I have a switch loop setup, per Wiring Diagrams...

I'm finally starting to replace my old X10 hardware.  I decided to start with the vanity.  It's eight bulbs total, four on each side of the mirror.  So, I bought two Aeon Labs DSC27103-ZWUS,White, US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Dimmer because I assumed I'd need one on each side.  Before placing...

  I think this is the key I was looking for.  For a few fixtures I have in mind, I'll use the in-box module.  Then I'm just going to pull the switch entirely and wire it closed, and the put a blank on that spot on the wall.  Then, I'm going to put a wireless controller in place of a wired...

Being a hardcore geek, I have a coupla circa-2005 XP computers lying around.  I'm going to start with free software on those to act as the brain while I'm playing around with this stuff.  Depending on the software I try out, I may switch one over to Linux.  If that old hardware gives up the...

  I had X-10 switches in there for years, and they worked fairly well while I had incandescents in the sockets.  So, doesn't that imply hot to the switch?   I looked at CRRC's cookbook, and I looked at the wiring diagrams on the product page.  I have a clue, so I was able to follow generally...

I have some ideas on some rules I'd like to set up, so it sounds like HomeKit is not a good fit, for me.   It may be that this Zigbee endeavor will fizzle like the others.  OTOH, it may be that Zigbee has just reached a tipping point.  The fact that it's being used by multiple name brands in...

When I said two-wire, I meant no-neutral.  I said that because I don't know the terminology very well.  This house was built in 1973, so, it abides by reasonably modern codes.  But not the latest, that require neutral at the switch.  I do remember wiring in the ground when I installed my...

I'm afraid you've gone over my head with that.  Currently, I restrict myself to just swapping out switches.  I could follow a cookbook on what you've described.  But, I'd really like to understand it better before I did that.  For example, to understand the ramifications of doing that, if...

What issues has your friend run into?  Is there anything he's wanted to do and couldn't, because of the lack of a neutral?  Is there anything he's wished for that's not conveniently supported by the Caseta system, so he feels locked in?   Tonight, a guy on the openHAB forum says that he has been...

Yes, I'm choosing cheap and easy to start.  I'd like to do a piece at a time and see how it turns out.   I know that you really, really like that Lutron system.  But, my research keeps telling me that no-neutral is a big issue.  Smart bulbs works around that issue.   I also realize that by going...

I've been mulling this over, and I've decided to punt.  It's just too hard to get info on running a no-neutral system.  I'm just too far in the minority, and few people are interested in devoting any effort to this.  And, I'd probably end up so limited on hardware that I'd never be happy with...

Thanks, Dean.  I understand.  With your experience, I'm sure learning a new system like that is probably mostly just learning their terminology.   Their website sure makes it look like a fully-formed system, designed by people with experience.