Hard wired sensor state input

[rhughes]

I'm curious as to what people are using to get the state of hard-wired sensors, such as door/window switches, motion detectors, IR beams, etc., into the computer. Although I'm currently using Homeseer with various X-10 wireless devices (which I'm going to replace with wired sensors), I'd like a general interface for digital inputs that other HA software would support as well. Thanks for any suggestions.

Edited for spelling.

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

Are you trying to build an alarm system with Homeseer? Or just for occupancy, etc.?

 

[IVB]

Any desire to keep pushing & integrate your security system as well? You could get something like the Elk EZ8 pretty cheap (variety of options at the $330ish level). I hear the Omni is cheaper still, but I don't know nuthing about that.

I'm sure there's cheaper options, but if $330ish works for you, you'd be fine. Of course, for $600ish, you could get the Elk M1Gold, but let's not get silly (yet)

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

IVB,

You bring up a good point. Yes, there are some cheaper ways to go if you don't want to spring for a full automation panel.

 

[Madcodger]

IVB,

You bring up a good point. Yes, there are some cheaper ways to go if you don't want to spring for a full automation panel.

I tried doing this with an old alarm panel, then an Ocelot, and finally I bought an Elk M1G (from Martin). And THAT solved it!

So personally, I'd recommend you just forget trying to rig something up (as I tried and tried), and just send Martin a check for an Elk. Best HA thing I've every purchased, and it's one heck of a security panel as well.

 

[rhughes]

Thanks for the responses! I'm currently using a hacked up game controller (actually a dual controller) which gives me 24 digital inputs. I also created an isolation module using opto-isolaters so I wouldn't fry my computer if one of the sensors contacted some higher voltage. All pretty cheap (~$30 for the controller and ~$15 for the isolation module). I'm using the DirectInput plug-in for Homeseer. This all works pretty well, I'm just surprised there isn't some more general solution available. I'm not really interested in an intelligent interface since I have all the capability I need already in the computer.

 

[IVB]

Well, there are cheaper & more general solutions available as Martin/AutomatedOutlet states. The Elk is nice as it takes care of all the muss&fuss for you, and it's pretty transportable across software options, so some of us chose that path to keep things simple.

I just checked out a few of the CQC-supported devices page, and found these. Don't know anything about them, but it gives you something to research.

Option 1: AccesUI/PCI-IIRO cards.

The PCI-IIRO-8 and PCI-IIRO-16 are low-cost, half-size cards that provide isolated input and output for PCI-Bus computers. The cards have eight or sixteen optically-isolated digital inputs for AC or DC control signals and eight or sixteen electro-mechanical relay outputs. PCI-IIRO-8 occupies four consecutive eight-bit registers in I/O space. PCI-IIRO-16 occupies eight consecutive eight-bit registers in I/O space.

For more information see: http://www.accesio.com/go.cgi?p=.....pci_iiro_8.html

Option 2: Carls Electronics CK1610

This box is available as a DYI kit or as a pre-assembled box. It is simple but can be very useful for any applications which require a contact closure, such as screen, garage door, or projector lifts. It provides 8 contact closures (relays), and 4 grounded inputs. It can be bought from Carl's Electronics. The specifications are available as a PDF document link from the provided page.

Those have existing CQC drivers, no idea about HomeSeer.

 

[ver0776]

I use Phidgets. They provide digital & analog inputs, they also control relays and have many physical input options all at reasonable prices (less than $100 for any of there interfaces). What sold me on Phidgets is that they provide sample source code for ALL their products AND in multiple languages, so you know you can always interface thier sensors with about anything.

I know everyone loves Elk, and I don't have any complaints against it, but the reason I have not bought one is that I only want the state of the inputs, and maybe some emergency logic for when computers crash, but I fear that it will add more delay & lag to the responsiveness of my lighting plus is overkill on complexity for someone who just wants sensor inputs.

I wish I could find some security panel with 32-64 inputs that had a PC interface I could access... Maybe that Elk EZ8 or whatever it is called might be a good fit for me, I have not researched it. Besides the limited number of inputs, I am happy with Phidgets and so I stopped my quest for a panel.

I have seen parallel port hacks and the such, and although I like the "cheap" aspect of them, I really need a product that I can recommend to others to use and officially support said product in vCrib.

So not sure if this helps, I just know doing a home brew system that I had different requirements than most...

Vaughn

 

[gatchel]

I decided to go the ELk route mainly because I didn't want a PC on 24/7. It is well worth the money. The excellent support helps too!

 

[Steve]

I think alot of it also has to do with defining the real need. If its just for some I/O devices for HA applications then any of the cards, etc will work fine. But IMHO if it is going to be used for security, I would never leave that to a homegrown system with a pc and I/O cards - only a professional security system would do for me in that case.

 

[ver0776]

My PC based security system is good for 3 hours in a power outage, how long can you guys keep an ELK up? I imagine about 8 hours or so?

Vaughn

 

[Steve]

Depends on the load and size/qty of batteries. Last hurricane season it ran about 15-20 hours before I cranked up the generator.

 

[IVB]

I have one of those monster motorcycle-battery sized Elk batteries for my 2ndary panel that has most of my sensors, the regular one running just the mainboard and a few sensors.

I haven't timed it, but the #s insinuate well over 24 hours.

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I think UL requires 24 hours on alarm panels. Of course, if you are installing it for yourself, you don't need to worry about that unless your insurance company requires it.

 

[Digger]

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I think UL requires 24 hours on alarm panels. Of course, if you are installing it for yourself, you don't need to worry about that unless your insurance company requires it.

The NFPA and UL985 and UL864 require that Fire Alarm Systems be provided with a minimum of 24 hours of battery backup in standby and they 5 mins in alarm.

UL1023 and UL1610 require that burglar alarms have a minimum of 4 hours of battery backup in standby and 5 mins in alarm.

Some speacilty applications require even longer.

In addition the battery has to recharge at least 90% in 48 hours for a fire alarm and 24 hours in a burg alarm. Most residential panels have a charge rate of 300 to 500 ma (or so) so that they do not exceed the battery mfg maximum charge rate.