US240 switch meltdown
- Thread starter PaulD
- Start date
Steve
Senior Member
I'm not going to beat around the bush. A dimmer controlling an outlet is just a plain bad idea, period, end of sentence. I'm sorry if that ruffles some feathers or anything but I don't mince words when life safety is at risk. I don't care if its hidden behind furniture or whatever the case is, you should NEVER have a device connected in such a manner to where is could be exposed to over current. Paul thank god was lucky. His house could easily have caught fire and burned to the ground. It's just not worth it, there are just too many other safer options that have already been mentioned - real controlled (relay) outlets, plug in modules, in line relays or modules, etc. Please don't put your or your families life at risk to save a few dollars, its just not worth it! You never know if somebody not familiar with your setup will be there without you and do something dangerous. A properly designed system will not let that happen.
No dimmers certainly, but also, but all components along the chain, wiring, switch, outlet, MUST BE RATED AT A CURRENT AT LEAST AS HIGH AS THE BREAKER. So, if you have a 15A breaker, and a 15A outlet, you need a switch which is also rated at a 15A load. Many automated switches aren't. So using a US240 in non-dim mode won't cut it. HAI has some 15A relay switches that should work.
RAM
Active Member
By this message, do you mean you have a Lightolier Compose Fan Controller to sell? If so how much do you want?
HAI_fjh
Active Member
My house had some switched outlets when I bought it. When I installed the automation, I hardwired all them on (just removed the switch and used wire nuts). Finally I installed a room controller where the switch was. For the lamps I wanted to control I used lamp modules or appliance modules.
So no switched outlets, and I have greater control over the the lights in the room.
Echoing the caution of others; even if you are a DIY, I strongly recommend that you follow NEC and any other local code guidelines. I personally know two families who had fires in their house caused by improper wiring. In both cases the family woke up in the middle of the night with their house on fire. One due to a water heater, one due to a space heater in a child's bedroom. I can't imagine waking up in a burning house.
So no switched outlets, and I have greater control over the the lights in the room.
Echoing the caution of others; even if you are a DIY, I strongly recommend that you follow NEC and any other local code guidelines. I personally know two families who had fires in their house caused by improper wiring. In both cases the family woke up in the middle of the night with their house on fire. One due to a water heater, one due to a space heater in a child's bedroom. I can't imagine waking up in a burning house.
LightenUP
Active Member
The dimmer switches really in normal boxes are rated on watts. I suggest following the above post. Lamp mods with constant power on the recepticle. Wire the controller to be a transmitter only. Extension cords could join two lamps to one LM rated at 300w.
The main concern I'd have is when the house is sold. Or furniture rearranged. What if the recepticle was used for a Christmas Tree, space heater, Vacuum etc. 15 amp relay switch, sure but we all really want dimming unless they are CFLs or something.
The main concern I'd have is when the house is sold. Or furniture rearranged. What if the recepticle was used for a Christmas Tree, space heater, Vacuum etc. 15 amp relay switch, sure but we all really want dimming unless they are CFLs or something.
Another possibility would be using NEMA L5-15 twist-lock connectors. These have the advantage of being UL-listed for general use, but uncommon enough in residential applications that you're unlikely to ever see a home appliance with a twist-lock plug that you didn't install yourself. Disadvantage is that they are very industrial-looking, and the receptacles are available in simplex only.
