Central Vacuum Question

Neurorad

Senior Member
Briefly, I'm replacing a central vac hose, and I maybe buying a kit.  System is LV only, un-powered attachments.
 
Some hoses offer a switch on the handle, to turn the vacuum on/off.  How does it work?
 
There are 2 contacts within the wall inlet ring, and bridging them turns the motor on.  Is it a PITA to connect the hose to the wall inlet properly, to allow use of the switch on the hose?
 
FWIW, I'm considering this Broan-NuTone hose.  Soft vinyl over steel wire interwoven with nylon cord.  I wish it was offered in a 35' length, but nope.  30' or 42' only.
 
NUCH230_full.jpg

 
Any hose rec's or reviews would be welcomed.
 
Thanks a bunch.
 
Depending on how it's activated - is it just opening the door, or when you insert the hose - does it make any contact?
 
I would suspect you may have to change the actual inlets, but they're very cheap and changing the wire is easy - usually just two wires that are screwed in - so you could probably change the inlet to match the new hose style for <$10/inlet (I replaced all of them in my last house).
 
The picture you posted shows a metal band on the part that goes into the wall.  For unswitched hoses that is a complete ring that shorts the contacts in the wall.  For a hose with a switch the band is actually two segments - each segment touches one contact in the wall.  The switch on the hose connects the two segments together.  Operation is simple - just open the door and plug in the hose. 
 
If you order a replacement hose there a slight differences in the supposedly compatible hose ends between manufacturers.  One of our hoses doesn't fit the hole tightly and can rotate (doesn't tend to fall out completely, just rotates) and the switch doesn't work right then (Don't remember exactly but think the unit runs all the time if it rotates).
 
Not sure about replacing the faceplate only to fix that.  I haven't looked into it.  But the change may require the piece in the wall to be replaced too, which would mean cutting drywall and gluing pipe.
 
Yes, continuous ring around male hose connector end, on the old hose.  If the ring is discontinuous on the new hose, I'm wondering how much trouble it will be to make sure it's inserted correctly, into the inlet.
 
Replacing all the inlets would be about $100, but some of them need replacement anyway (some slightly yellowed).
 
I'm curious to know how these new-ish hoses with switches on the handle work, i.e. ring design, and how WAF will be affected.
 
I'm guessing the new hose male connector end will have a mark or arrow on it, and just point it up, when inserting into the inlet.  I don't see anything new/different on available NuTone inlets (at least in online pics), so I don't think there has been a change to the design.
 
Jim, thanks for the details.  Good to know that the hose rotation only causes the switch to fail, and the unit will just remain on.
 
W2P - most of my inlets are fixed by a solid plate to the adjacent stud (construction brackets).  Replacing the covers is easy, but replacing the inlets would be a big job.  I don't think the inlet design has changed much, if at all.
 
Retrofits use flexible pipe with mechanical connectors, no glue usually.
 
NU326N_full.jpg
 
Yup; we have a central vac system installed around 2000 (in FL).  It does have the power switch on the hose plus power for the attachments. 
 
Its been fine now for 14 years.  No switch failure to date.
 
The inlet for the hose only fits in one way.  The power piece is banded metal inside of the inlet.
 
The hose is hung on a rack right next to the garage door (inside of the garage). 
 
That said the WAF works by me taking the hose inside of the house.  Its sort of heavy and long and a PITA to deal with; a bit too much for wife; since day 1. 
 
Easier to use the regular vacuum cleaner.  Its make for a great garage car vacuum though; easy to use in the garage. 
 
Hrm - in my last house, all the inlets were metal (decorative) and attached to the rigid piping with a tight slip-fit and a screw to secure them IIRC - and the contacts were screw terminals.  Many had paint and junk on them so I replaced with modern NuTone ones - it was pretty painless.
 
Neurorad,
 
Low voltage electrical hoses have a split ring on the male end which interfaces to two contacts in the outlet.  The hose end is "clocked" via a molded in tab to align the split ring with the contacts.
 
Because of the molded tab, I don't believe you can use the new hose with your old outlet cover (it'll interfere and won't fully engage).  If your old mounting plates are a standard size, you should be able to simply replace the outlet cover with the "tabbed" design.  I used "Beam" covers in the style shown below because they were heavier construction and had a much stiffer spring on the cover.  I installed the system myself during construction and put in a crazy number of outlets (didn't know furniture layout).  I wanted the stiff spring cover so my outlets didn't leak when closed.  Can't say the other types are bad, but these have lasted 14 years with continuous use (pets).
 
We use a 30" Nutone hose/power head.  No problems with either in 14 years. 
 
I you do replace the outlets, you should still be able to use your "old" hose attachments.  They have a continuous ring and will close the outlet contacts regardless of clocking.
 
 
 
 
Central_Vac_outlet.png
 
Thanks, Mike.  The new hose has a marker on the male end, no tab that I saw.  Point it up, and the handle switch works fine.  If twisted, the switch stops working.
 
I haven't decided to keep the new hose or not.  The locking pin doesn't match my old metal wand.  I'll have to cut down/trim the metal end of the new hose, to use the pin.  I'll probably get a new wand, with new attachments.
 
Hard to judge quality of central vac attachments/accessories.  So many of them have awful reviews, at Amazon.
 
Because of the locking pin position, I'll probably stick with NuTone, to make things easier.  NuTone tech support said the pin on the new hose will be compatible with all NuTone's current products, and the change happened several years ago.
 
Guys take a look at the hide a hose system.  You might have to run a new straight line for that hose but its a huge advantage for WAF and actual use. Now you just take out an attachment and the hose stays stored in the wall.
 
The system goes from a PIA hose to actually more convenient then a normal vacuum.  Add a coupe toe kick vacuum plates and the system finally gets used regularly.
 
The con is the plate is a bit bigger but a 50ft run reaches a lot farther than the average hose being lugged around. 
 
That would be a HUGE undertaking, replacing with a hide-a-hose system.  Though, the concept is certainly awesome.
 
I bought NuTone accessories, Amazon Prime.  We'll see how they work out.
 
Thanks for the help!
 
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