Wiring Your New House 102

Checklist to be used with this guide can be downloaded from the CT downloads section http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php?autocom=downloads&showfile=118

Contents 1 Electrical 1.1 General HA/HT Electrical Tips 1.2 Tips for Systems using PLC Communications 1.3 Interesting Electrical Options 2 Audio 2.1 Tips for Whole House Audio Systems 2.2 Tips for Home Theater Audio 2.3 Tips for Music Outside 3 Video 3.1 General Video Tips 3.2 OTA/HD Video Tips 3.3 Satellite Dish Tips 3.4 Cable TV Tips 3.5 Video Distribution 3.6 Video Modulators 3.7 Home Theatre video 4 Phone 4.1 General Phone Tips 4.2 Hardware PBX 4.3 Software PBX 4.4 VoIP 4.5 Network 5 Security 5.1 Keypads 5.2 Sensors 5.3 Contacts 5.4 Cameras 6 HVAC 7 Conduit 8 Touch screens 9 Wiring Closet 10 Automation 11 Links

Electrical

General HA/HT Electrical Tips

• Make sure you have a neutral at all switch locations. Most high-quality switches require a neutral.
• Always use deep electrical boxes for outlets and switches. Most of the remote controlled switches are larger than their non-remote counterparts. You will need the extra room. An alternative to deep boxes is to install larger (4”x4”) square boxes, and then install a single-gang-mud ring.
• If you plan on using RF switches in the future, such as Z-wave, or ZigBee, go with non-metallic boxes, since metal ones could interfere with reception.
• Make sure you install a whole house surge protector(s). Depending on the number of main panels you have, you might need more than one surge protector. For example, if you have a 400-amp service with two 200-amp panels, you will need a surge protector for each panel.
• If you plan to use a backup generator, don't forget to plan your electrical circuits such that they can be easily divided into critical zones hooked to the generator, and non-critical.
• If you intend to use a backup generator, you will need a separate surge protector on the generator feed. Generators are NOT known for producing clean power, and surges from the generator can be just as destructive as ones from the power line.
• If you are not planning on installing central air, it is a good idea to create separate circuits for window AC units. This helps isolate electrical noise and surges created by the Window AC units.
• Depending on the brand/model of switch you intend to install, you may need to match your switch colors to the intended paint color of the room. On many switches, you cannot change the color of the paddle without replacing the entire switch. Also, consider color coordinating the receptacles. Also, “white” from brand A may not be the same as “white” from brand B. If you are planning one mixing equipment from different manufacturers
• Use snap-on mud rings or dual voltage boxes so you can mount LV and HV side-by-side for a clean, neat look. Snap-on mud rings connect to the side of an electrical box, and provide all the mounting needed for LV cables and jacks. A dual voltage box has a partition in the middle to separate the LV side from the HV side. Instead of having two separate single gang boxes (one for HV and one for LV), you instead end up with a double (or more) gang box that contains both the HV and LV in one location.
• Overwire! In short, do not settle for your electrical system “meeting” code. You want the system to exceed the code, especially on the number and placement of receptacles. For example, the NEC requires receptacles to be placed so that no point of a wall is more than 6 ft. horizontally from a receptacle. This means that if you have a 12 ft. long wall, a receptacle in the middle will meet code. If you use a 12 ft. x 12 ft. room as your home office, will you be satisfied with a total of 4 receptacles? Given the profusion of electrical devices in a modern home, the demand for receptacles is very high (especially if you are into HA/HT). There are several possible techniques to solve these problems.
  • Consider asking the electrician to use a 4 ft. rule instead of 6 ft. In the example given above, this would double the number of outlets to 8.
  • Look at how you decorate. Some people like to put items (lamps, TVs, etc) in corners. In this case, you might want to put an outlet in the corner, and then start using the 4 ft. rule.
  • Consider the intended use of the room. Some rooms will demand extra outlets.
    • Home Offices
    • TV/Media rooms
    • Home Theatres
    • Locations where you plan to have extensive holiday decorations.
    • Play rooms (and your kids have how many electronic gadgets)?
    • Exercise rooms (If you have a lot of electric powered machines, i.e. a treadmills, you might need a 20-amp circuit instead of a 15 amp.
    • Automation rooms
  • The goal is to NEVER have to use an extension cord inside the house.
• Plan on running a dedicated 20A circuit (or two) to your future media center and Home Theatre. Clean power to the components is well worth it.
• Likewise, plan on multiple dedicated circuits to the automation room (there is a full section about this further on below).
• If you plan on using a hard-wired lighting system, determine the wiring needs now.
  • The HAI/OnQ ALC system requires a daisy chain run of Cat-5 to each switch location.
  • Centralite requires all switches to be home run to the lighting cabinet.

Tips for Systems using PLC Communications

• Plan for a coupler/repeater if using a PLC based system. These normally are mounted at the electrical panel, and require 2 dedicated breakers (one on each phase).
• If you are using a PLC based system, get the electrician to run separate circuits for lighting and wall plugs in each room. In other words, lights on one circuit, and the plugs on another. This makes it easier to debug PLC problems, and also eliminates the "my defective toaster popped the breaker and now I'm sitting in the dark" syndrome (for the later reason, it’s still nice to do this even if you are not using PLC).
• If you plan on using a Compose Lighting system, consider installing the Lightolier Rough-In enclosures. They make a very nice finished look, and allow you to add firewalls at a later date.
• Install a dedicated circuit for your primary PLC transmitter/receiver. This isolates the unit from noise and interference, allowing optimal performance. A frequent boo-boo is to plug in the PLC interface right next to a computer UPS, AKA “a signal sucker”.

Interesting Electrical Options

These are items that you might want to consider in preparation for future projects. Some are not really HA/HT related, but just nice to have. Of course, making your home more enjoyable is the reason for HA, so maybe they are HA related.

• Holiday lighting
• Put switched outlets under the eaves and in a few places at ground level around the outside of the house for decoration.
• If you have a large Christmas tree, or use lots of lights, consider a dedicated circuit for it. If you have a large room, also consider putting receptacles in the middle in the floor. These can provide power for a tree or lamps in the middle of the room, without having to run extension cords.
• Make sure there is an outlet (preferably switched) near the front door for a wreath, or similar lighted options.
• Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for an ultrasonic pest repellent and such. It also allows you to plug in a fan when working up there.
• Consider switched attic lighting, so when you go up there you can flip a switch and see.
• Code requires a minimal number of outside outlets on the house. You might want to have an outlet on each side of the house so you don’t have to run an extension cord all over the place to power the hedge clippers.
• If you plan on having security cameras, consider the power needs for the type of camera you intend to install. Some units require power at the end destination, while other will require it at the camera location.
• Do you intend to have a fishpond, fountain, or other outside water attraction? You might need power for pumps, lights, etc. How about a birdbath heater? Note: There are extra code requirements whenever you mix water and electricity (or more accurately, whenever you DON’T want to mix them). Make sure you do things correctly.
• If you plan to have decorative yard lighting (either LV or HV), you will need power for them, and some way to control them. If you plan one controlling them from a plug-in module, try to locate the module someplace protected from the elements.
• If you have a larger yard, consider running power to other spots on the property. These additional outlets can be used for decorations, yard work, or someplace for the kids to plug in their boom box.
• Plan for task lighting/floodlights outside. These lights should be mounted high on the sides of the house, and can be either halogen or regular spotlights. If you plan to control them remotely, make you stay within the switches power limits. Spotlights, especially halogens, add up quickly.
• Look around for places that you MIGHT want electricity in the future, either for electrical appliances, or lighting. Some suggestions that require either a switch, or receptacle are;
  • Lighting for picture frames or artwork
  • Lighting for cabinets holding collectables
  • Bannister lights
  • In the kitchen
• Under cabinet lighting
• In cabinet lighting
• Above cabinet lighting
• Kick-space lighting
• Decorations
• Do you want a fan over the kitchen table?
  • On the deck/patio
• Lights on/under the railing
• Accent lighting
• Task lighting over the grill
• Decorations
  • In the bedroom
• Do you want a ceiling fan?
• Up lighting in a tray ceiling
• Task lighting around the mirror
  • In the living/great room
• An outlet near the fireplace mantle for decorations or lights
• Spotlights on the mantle
• If you have a “stone” chimney, consider putting lights on the ceiling, around a foot from the chimney. These lights will bring out the texture of the chimney
• Ceiling fan(s)
• Consider putting lights in the closets. There are in-expensive switches that can be put in the doorjambs that will automatically turn the light on and off
• Depending on how much you plan on installing automation, you can wire the house without 3-way (or 4-way, etc) switches. Then install the loads in out of the way locations and put multi-button remote control at the locations where you normally would have had switches. When you do this, it eliminates the "switch banks" that normally crop up around the doorways, especially exterior doors. Very versatile, and it removes a lot of visual clutter.
• In some locations, increase the size of the box by one space (i.e. 1 single gang is replaced by a 2-gange, a 2-gange by a 2-gang, etc.). The extra space can be used for a multi-button remote control.
• Plan for future LCD/Plasma installations. If you know where they would go, you should power for them now. Don’t forget the LV connections either.
• If it’s a large house, consider installing power for a high-speed hot water recycling pump, such as THIS. This will provide hot water without having to wait 2-3 minutes for the hot water to arrive from the basement. Alternatively, consider a point-source tankless water heater.

Audio

Tips for Whole House Audio Systems

• Run Cat-5E to every keypad location
• Consider installing dual coil speakers in smaller rooms. This will allow stereo sound with only a single speaker.
• Central Amplifier types
  • Requires a larger gauge speaker wire because of the greater distance. Consider 16/4 for most runs, and 14/4 for runs over 100 ft.
  • Plan on running the speaker wire to the keypad location, then to the speakers. Some keypads have a local disconnect built-in
• Distributed Amplifier types
  • Only Cat-5E needed between main unit and keypad
  • Does not require a large gauge wire. 18/2 is sufficient
  • Plan on adding a point source input, i.e. play an iPod through the room speakers.
  • There are now some speakers that are IP based. Plan on installing Cat-5E if you are considering this option.

Tips for Home Theater Audio

• Use a good quality 14 (or 12) gauge speaker wire
• If possible, build the theater in such a way that you can change speaker configurations easily. State of the art today is 7.1, in four years it will be??
• Realize that optimal speaker placement for a Home Theater is NOT the same as optimal speaker placement for listening to music. Music listening is centered to the front of the viewer (concert hall) while home theater is front, sides, and back.
• Current speaker configurations
  • 5.1
• Center front
• Left front and right front
• Left surround and right surround
• Woofer
  • 6.1
• Center front
• Left front and right front
• Left surround and right surround
• Rear surround
• Woofer
  • 7.1
• Center front
• Left front and right front
• Left surround and right surround
• Left rear surround and right rear surround
• Woofer
  • Future??
• Run good quality interconnects
  • (RG6QS can be used for digital connections
  • Specialty cables are also available
  • Optical is the third (and best) choice

Tips for Music Outside

• Usually requires more power, and longer wire runs, so plan on installing a heavier gauge wire
• Use wire that is UV resistant, and/or made for direct burial
• Possible speaker positions/types
  • Planter speakers
  • Hanging basket speakers
  • Under deck/eave speakers
  • Omni-directional garden speakers
• Determine how the outside system can be controlled?
  • Keypads located near the door
  • Water-proof/water-resistant keypads outside
• Make sure the outside speakers are set to default to the Off/Mute position! Your neighbors probably won’t like listening to Metallica at 3 AM.

Video

General Video Tips

• Compression type connectors are preferable to crimp style connectors. Not only are the stronger and less likely to come lose, they are also better maintain the separation between the inner and outer parts of the Coax.
• Do NOT use the cheap F connectors that screw (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062632&cp=&kw=75+ohm+Coax&parentPage=search) onto the wire. There is a very easy reason for this. They are horrid!
• Avoid using push-on connectors inside the wall. They can work lose over time. You should actually try to avoid push-on connectors on all cases.
• Make sure that you account for all required Coax feeds coming into the house (from the street or the attic). Just because you don’t have a satellite dish now doesn’t mean you won’t have one in the future.

OTA/HD Video Tips

Yes Virginia, there is a place for Over-The-Air (OTA) reception in your automated house. It’s called High-Definition TV (HDTV), and it exists right now.

• At some point in the future (within the next 5 years), all analog TV transmittions will be replaced by digital signals. Congress has set a firm date for the switchover, but as with anything involving politicians, dates and deadlines are subject to (numerous) change(s).
• The format for digital OTA transmittions is not the same as the format for digital cable. Cable companies MAY carry the digital broadcasts exactly as broadcast. Then again, they may not. See the comment about politicians above
• Use RG-6 Quad Shield Coaxial cable with a solid copper (not copper plated over steel) center core. The higher quality Coax is required for HD video.

Satellite Dish Tips

• You will need to use a minimum of 3 GHz (RG6QS Coax for satellite reception.
• The number of Coax runs varies depending on the type of dish and service you have. Plan on running 4 Coaxial cables for EACH dish you plan on mounting. For example, if you plan on both DirecTV and Dish network dishes, you will need a total of 8 Coax runs.
• If you plan on using a satellite Internet connection, add an additional two Coax cable runs.
• For those people who live in snow country, don’t forget to run wires for a dish heater/de-icer. One pair of 18-gauge wire (or larger) is usually sufficient, but check your ratings just in case.

Cable TV Tips

• If you use a high quality Coaxial cable ((RG6QS), you will be ready for both analog and digital cable.
• Most cable companies will place the cable NID near the electrical panel, so make sure you have a Coax run between there and the wiring closet.
• Make provisions for whole house surge protection where the cable enters the house.

Video Distribution

• Run at least 4 (RG6QS Coax cables to each entertainment center location, and 3 Cat-5E cables. This will give you the flexibility of being able to send signals back to the wiring closet, and also have IP connectivity, serial connectivity, etc.
• Don’t forget to have a few cable drops outside on the deck or patio. Weather permitting, you can always watch the NASCAR outside.
• Any location that has a Coax feed coming in from the wiring closet should also have a Coax feed returning to the closet. This allows you to send local A/V signals back to the wiring closet for distribution throughout the house.
• Most splitters divide the signal evenly between the available taps. As an example from a four-output setup, a four-way splitter will yield 25% of the signal for each tap. If you used multiple two-way splitters in-line, you would get a breakout of 25%, 12.5%, 6.25% and 6.25%.
• A distribution amplifier is preferred over multiple splitters. Unlike splitters, a distribution amplifier will allow you to split the signal multiple times with degradation. The better distribution amplifiers allow variable amplification, so you can use just the amount of amplification needed.
• Seal unused taps with a 75-ohm terminator (http://www.channelplus.com/product_detail.php?productId=17). This equalizes the signal among the remaining taps, and also prevents outside interference from entering the distribution system.
• Buy good quality, name brand splitters. The cheap ones you get at the local department or electronics store are horrible. You get what you paid for. Also, don’t assume that just because you got it from your cable company that it is good quality. A good quality splitter will keep the signal on the center conductor equidistant from the braid throughout the splitter, while poor quality ones will not. Since the only way to check this is to open the unit up (usually destroying it), the only way to make sure is to spend the money for a name brand unit.
• Consider offbeat locations for video.
  • Under-counter TV in the Kitchen, or a TV mounted on the refrigerator door.
  • Display units behind the mirrors in the bathrooms.

Video Modulators

Modulators are used to “modulate” an audio/video signal into a RF signal that can be fed into the house video distribution system. Modulation is primarily used for video cameras, but can also be used to distribute signals from a VCR or DVD player.

However, the future of modulators is very blurry (no pun intended). In the past, there was plenty of spare room on cable systems, so it was easy to modulate signals into blank channels. Now though, most cable systems do not have unused channels so there is little space to put a modulated channel. There are special “notch” filters that block a set of incoming channels, allowing modulated signals to be inserted instead. This works well, if the user can find a block of channels that are not wanted. Also, modulators do NOT co-exist well with digital cable signals. If you have digital cable, forget about using a modulator.

Finally, there is the upcoming switch from analog broadcast channels to digital. As TV manufacturers stop making sets with analog tuners, where will modulators fit in? Stay tuned.

• For any place where you might want a modulator, make sure to run Coax back to the wiring closet. Very few people have complained about running too much Coax, but MANY people have complained about not running enough.
• If you run a wire for a modulator, consider running a Cat-5E also. There are adaptors for running composite video signals over Cat-5E. The Cat-5E will also work if you use an IP camera.
• Consider using IP cameras. They don’t fit well into the current analog RF world, but are much more likely to interface in the coming digital world.
• Consider having 2 (or more) Coax feeds to each location. Many TVs now have multiple inputs, allowing you to use one input for cable, and the other for your own private network of modulators.

Home Theatre video

• Use mini-Coax for the connections behind the equipment. Because of its’ smaller size, mini-Coax is more flexible and has a smaller bend radius, making it much easier to run behind the equipment.
• If possible, make provisions for multiple feed types (I.E. RGB, composite, S-video, etc.) from the equipment to the projector/video display location. This will allow you flexibility to replace equipment at a later date.
• Even better, design the room so that you can easily run new wires at a later date.
• Home Theatre wall plates like this (http://www.onqlegrand.com/jahia/Jahia/lang/en/pid/1512) make for a very neat and clean installation. Just make sure that you do not lock yourself into a configuration that limits you in the future. The unit pictured is very flexible, but some of the cheaper models/brands are not.
• While not related to wiring, plan on installing sound barriers/insulation around the HT. The HT experience will not be enhanced by the sound of someone flushing a toilet upstairs.

Phone

General Phone Tips

• Use a minimum of Cat-5E. Currently, the FCC allows Cat-3 wire for phones, but every other electronics association recommends Cat-5. Cat-5 has been almost completely supplanted by Cat-5E, so just use the same wire you use for your network wiring.
• If you use RJ45 jacks at the wall, you will still be able to plug in your regular phone or a network cable. Both telephone plugs, and network connections can plug into a RJ45. Using RJ45s throughout the house gives you the flexibility to quickly switch the use of the jack, without punching down a new jack. (Warning, plugging computer equipment into a jack connected to the phone system will result in all the smoke escaping from your computer equipment. If you choose to use this method, make sure you label the jacks thoroughly)
• Make sure you install telephone surge protection where the phone line enters the house. Do not depend on the phone company surge protectors.
• Consider putting one or two phone jacks in the patio/deck area. There are occasions that you might want a non-cordless phone outside.

Hardware PBX

• Make sure the inputs and outputs to the PBX are easily configurable. That way you can mix-and-match, i.e. local Telco on line 1, VoIP on line 2, output from Homeseer (TTS on line 3, etc.
• Many PBXs have provisions for door phones, so make sure you run the necessary wires. If the PBX offers an option for electric door strikes, don’t forget to run wires for that also.
• If desired, run wires for music-on-hold from the PBX to your music source. Usually, this is a simple mono connection.
• If desired, run wires for paging. Again, this is a simple mono connection coming from the PBX to the PA system.
• If most PBXs lose electrical power, they are inoperative. Plan on having a UPS for the PBX
• Run a Cat-5E to the PBX from a computer location. The Cat-5E can be used to carry RS232 for programming. If the PBX uses USB, run the appropriate wire.

Software PBX

• One of the better opensource PBX platforms is Asterisk (http://www.asterisk.org/)
• Wiring requirements are very similar to the hardware PBX,

VoIP

• Most VoIP adaptors will not support more than one or two telephones because of power limitations. If you want VoIP access throughout the entire house, plan on hooking the VoIP adaptor up to a PBX (which then supplies the necessary power).
• For maximum flexibility, make sure the output from the VoIP adaptor feeds into a patch panel.
• Likewise, some VoIP adapters go between the cable/DSL modem and the router, while others go after the router. Design your system so either configuration will work.

Non-KSU systems (1, 2, 3, or 4 lines)

• For every two phone lines, you will need one RJ11 jack. If you want to have 3 or 4 lines, you will need two phone jacks side-by-side to connect to.
• Generally, the advanced features of a multi-line phone will only work with another phone of the same type. Plan accordingly.
• In the past, there were cases where the number of phones in a house exceeded the power supplied by the phone company. While this has become very infrequent in recent years, it still does happen, especially in rural areas. If you want to have a large number of phones (even single line phones) and you are a significant distance from the wire center, design your system so you can slip in a PBX, just in case.

Network

• Use a minimum of Cat-5E. Anything lower is a waste of time and money. Cat-5E currently supports 1000 Mb connections, giving you tons of bandwidth.
• Consider 1-2 LAN drops to the patio/deck. This allows you to have a totally secure connection. It also is much higher speed than a wireless connection.
• The tap for the cable modem should be at the first location where the signal is divided. The same is true if using DSL. This produces the maximum signal strength for the modem, with the minimum interference.
• A good quality Cat-5E installation will outperform a poor quality Cat-6 installation. Check out lanshack.com for instructions for installing a UTP network.
• Don’t skimp on the network drops, especially in the office and media room/HT. IP is the wave of the future, and you are better off with too many drops, than with too few.
• Consider location that might need permanent connectivity (not wireless) in the future. For instance, there are refrigerators with touch screens now. They require a network drop behind them.

Security

Keypads

• Run at least one Cat-5E to the areas where you will install security keypads. Many newer keypads can use the extra conductors for additional features. It also makes you ready for touch screens or video displays.
• Run 18/4 (Fire Wire to the areas where you will install security keypads. This is a code requirement in many areas.
• Plan for keypads at the following locations
  • Primary entrance door(s)
  • Garage, or garage entrance
  • Master Bedroom (if the alarm goes off in the middle of the night, you don’t want to have to run downstairs to see what’s going on).
  • At the alarm panel (mainly for initial programming and debugging).
• Install shielded microphone cable to each keypad location to support “listen in” microphones.

Sensors

• For CO detectors, run 22/4 security wire
  • Every floor
  • In the vicinity of every bedroom (a 1 to 1 ratio is not needed)
  • Where you have large combustion sources, i.e. gas or oil furnaces and hot water heaters, gas dryers, gas fireplaces.
• For Gas detectors (LP or Natural), run 22/4 security wire wherever you have gas appliances
• Run 22/4 security wire to every location where you want water detection. These are normally areas prone to mechanical spills (washing machines, water heaters, dishwashers), or drainage problems (basements, sump pumps, etc.)
• Run 22/4 security wire to areas where glass breaks, noised detectors, and motion sensors are needed.
• Install 18/4 (Fire Wire for smoke detectors. You can home run each smoke, but most installers setup smokes into logical zones, i.e. by floor (first, second, third), area (bedroom wing), etc. DO NOT put all the detectors on a single zone (unless you have a very small house).
• At minimum, you will need smoke detectors at the following locations
  • Inside each bedroom
  • Outside of each bedroom, within 10 ft. of the door
  • One every floor of the building
• Do not install smoke detectors in kitchens, bathrooms (or immediately next to a bathroom door), garages, furnace rooms, or rooms connected directly to a garage.
• THESE ARE A MINIMUM SET OF GUIDELINES AND MAY NOT REFLECT LEGAL REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR JURISDICTION. CHECK WITH YOUR BUILDING INSPECTOR OR OTHER AHJ BEFORE INSTALLATION!
• Consider installing 18/4 (Fire Wire for future smoke detectors in every room even though code does not require it. You may want to install additional units later for insurance reasons or personal peace of mind. This also will help if you decide later to convert a room into a bedroom.
• Install 18/4 (Fire Wire to location where you want heat detection
  • Furnace rooms
  • Attics
  • Garages
  • Kitchens

Contacts

• Run a 22/2 security wire to the outside cable Network Interface Device (NID) for a tamper contact. If someone opens the NID, then you will be aware of it.
• Run a 22/2 security wire to the outside phone NID for a tamper contact. Again, it will alert you when someone fools with the NID
• If possible, put the NID in the crawl space or basement. For the crawl space, make sure to alarm the entrance to the crawl space. Doing this protects the NID from tampering, but check with phone company first. Some companies will not allow you to do this.
• Run 22/2 security wire to each door for door contacts.
• Run 22/2 security wire for window contacts. There are two schools of thought on window contacts
  • Run a wire for each individual window. This makes problem isolation very easy, and increases the level of detail available, but it also requires lots of wire and greatly increases installation time.
  • Run a wire for each logical group of windows, usually a room. This requires much less time and wire, but makes problem isolation more difficult. Level of detail is still acceptable (do you need to know that the second window from the left is open in the kids bedroom, or just that a window in the kids bedroom is open?)
• If you want to be able to open a window a few inches for ventilation and still turn the alarm on, you will need to wire a second set of contacts in parallel on the windows you want to open. In short, one contact will be secure when the window is closed, while the other will be secure when the window is in the partially open position.
• Consider areas that you might want to alarm or monitor, and run 22/2 security wire to them.
  • Gun safes
  • Coin collections
  • Attics
  • Wine cellars
  • Etc.

Cameras

• Run Coax (RG6 or RG59) and 18/2 power to camera locations. You should also run Cat-5E. This prepares you for all the possible camera combinations you could install in the near future.
• Don't forget about the power requirements. It sometimes is easier to install an electrical outlet somewhere near the camera location, than it is to carry power for a long distance.
• For outside cameras at night, you might want to install infrared spotlights to aid in night visibility. The spotlights will also require power.
• Don't forget to wire for interior cameras for things like baby monitoring and nanny cams. There are special cameras that fit into a single-gang box, or you can use surface mounted cameras.
• When installing outside cameras, consider maintenance. The high mounted cameras give a wonderful field of view, but are more difficult to maintain. Can you get to the camera easily if the lens gets dirty, or a bird makes a nest on top of it (happens more frequently than you would think)?

Other

• Pre-wire for electric door strikes on outside doors even if you won't be using electric locks at first.
• Run 18/4 (Fire Wire to the siren location. The second pair can be used to monitor the siren, i.e. broken wire will give a trouble indication.
• If you want to use a card reader, or proximity detector, don’t forget to wire for them.

HVAC

• Run 4 conductor wires (or Cat-5E) from the wiring closet to each thermostat in case you want to tie them to your automation system.
• If you plan on automating any dampers or HVAC vents, make sure you run wire for that as well.
• Many thermostats allow the use of remote sensors, concealed in the drywall. This allows the thermostat to be mounted in an out of the way location. Since there is no thermostat seen, the walls of the original room have a nice uncluttered look.

Conduit

• Run conduit to outside areas where you might want to install a light fixture, fountain, etc. in the future.
• Run conduit from the wiring closet to the garage for future use.
• Run conduit from the wiring closet to areas such as the attic, crawl space or basement. Make sure this is code compliant.
• Run conduit to any detached structures that you might want to run wire to in the future.
• Run conduit alongside/under the driveway and walkway for future uses, such as mailbox monitoring, gate controls, or automobile sensors.
• Some conduit is directional. If installed incorrectly, even a pull rope might not help you. Always install so the pull will be going male conduit connector to female conduit connector.
• Code generally allows up to 360 degrees of curvature in a pull. Realistically, don’t go over 180 degrees.
• Go larger rather than smaller. You’ll never kick yourself for putting in too large a conduit.

Touch screens

• Run at least 1 Cat-5E for networking, and 1 Cat-5E for accessories (Serial/USB & VGA signal) to each location
• Whenever possible, try to create a small storage space behind the wall where the touch screen is going. This makes it easier to install one in the future, and you can use the space for a small computer, which will drive the touch screen (assuming it is PC based).
• Don't forget to run power for the touch screen and PC if needed.
• If a PC is being mounted behind the touch screen, don’t ignore ventilation requirements.

Wiring Closet

• Remember to install additional lighting and HVAC. Computers and amplifiers generate lots of heat, so you will need some type of ventilation.
• You can use thick plywood on the wall instead of drywall. If you do this, you can mount items to it such as the Elk control box, 12-volt power distribution center, 12-volt source with battery, shelving for stereo distribution equipment, etc.
• Consider terminating field wiring on punch blocks or patch panels. The reason for this is NOT just to make things neat and convenient. Over time you may change the equipment in your wiring closet many times to incorporate new technology. Since field wiring is permanent, you do not want it to experience excessive wear and tear. Punch blocks and patch panels take all the wear and tear of hookup changes so the ends of the actual field wires don't have to.
• Install multiple electrical circuits in the wiring closet.
  • Dedicated circuit for PLC transmitters only (15 amp). Only put your master transmitter/receiver here. If you want, you can hook all your wall-warts on this circuit also, but they would be better on another circuit.
  • Audio/video/etc (20-30 amps).
  • All computers (20-30 amps). Isolating this branch is critical, as you probably will have at least one UPS (or possibly more), and UPS are known for being signal suckers. B-A-A-D for X-10.
• Consider an ELK power distribution box for LV power. This option eliminates a lot of the wall warts by providing a single source of LV power.
• Wall wart control is a PITA, as they will chew up a gazillion receptacles. Either install a few plug-in Wiremold power strips (~3 ft. with 8 receptacles), or a couple of the permanently mounted Wiremold strips (1 receptacle/ft.)

Automation

This area consists of everything not covered elsewhere, and is the one that with some of the more offbeat suggestions. Some suggestions don’t have anything to do with wiring, but require thought during the planning and wiring stages.

• Run 1 Cat-5E wire to the garage door area. You will at least 1 pair for garage door monitoring, 1 pair for garage door control, allowing you to use the 2 remaining pair for future projects (such as advanced door monitoring, or monitoring the beam sensors).
• If you will have a water softener, run at 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E for salt level monitoring, water softener activity monitoring, etc.
• Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to each furnace, so you can monitor filter changes, furnace run time, etc.
• Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to the laundry for appliance monitoring.
• Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E, and 18/2 zip cord, to each window where you might like automatic drapes/blinds someday. The zip cord will be for power, and the other cable for control (i.e. IR). The IR can be placed inside the window controls, or a blaster can be placed elsewhere in the room, facing the windows.
• Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to your mailbox, so you can monitor when the mail arrives. Use either conduit or bugger cable.
• If you think of having a weather station someday, then try to install the wiring & sensors while you have the chance. Keep in mind that a lightning detector requires special wiring to work properly.
• Consider using floor pressure sensors to detect occupancy in rooms. These will also work great when mounted under the stairs, so make sure you plan your wiring accordingly. A run of 22/4 security wire to each sensor location should do the job.
• Wire for microphones in each room in case you want to use voice recognition someday.
• If you plan on using driveway sensors in the future, try to plan this as well. Install conduit now.
• Consider installing wiring (22/4 security wire or Cat-5E) in locations where you might want to install an IR blaster. The ceiling would be the best choice since an IR blaster requires direct line of sight to the equipment.
• Run wiring for IR emitters to your entertainment center area. It can be run over a pair of a spare Cat-5E drop or 22/4 security wire.
• If you want to monitor IR commands, you will need 3 wires per IR receiver.
• You might want to run one or two extra Cat-5E drops to your entertainment center, in case your equipment supports control through a serial port.
• Don't forget to run some extra wire for 'power on' sensors, such as the CR Magnetics current sensors.
• Run Cat-5E to locations where you might want to install separate temperature/humidity sensors.
• Plan your home automation voice announcements. Will you be using your whole-house audio system for this, or will you be using your PBX, intercom, dedicated speakers, etc.?
• RFID is here to stay and will probably become a very popular tool in the future. If you plan on installing RFID receivers such as the iAutomate.com ones, make sure you plan your wiring accordingly. Check with manufacture for more details on the required wiring.
• If you want an intercom system, make sure you don't forget to run the wiring for it. If you don't know which system you are going with, run at least 1 Cat-5E.
• Use nail guards! Nail guards are metal plates that are attached to studs before the drywall goes up. They are used to protect wires (high & low voltage) as well as PVC pipes.
• If you have a larger house, or a long distance between the hot water heater and you bathroom, consider a hot water recirculation loop, along with a high-speed pump.
• Run 120v, two Cat-5E, and (RG6QS to locations in the back yard where you might have a future shed. If you have multiple (RG6QS, you can use one of the extras for a camera facing back at the house.
• Run (RG6QS to the attic for a GPS Antenna, and/or X-10 RF
• Pre-tube for a whole house vacuum.
• (TTS has several different options, and requires pre-planning.
  • Use the whole house music system for (TTS.
  • Use a PBX/speaker phones for (TTS.
  • Install a dedicated set of speakers for (TTS
• A Cat-5E run to the power meter for an IR sensor that counts revolutions of the disk inside, and thus estimate the electrical usage.
• If you plan on installing an automatic sprinkler system. There is special 7-conductor wire for sprinkler systems that is UV resistant and ready for direct burial. Each valve requires one conductor, plus a common ground wire, so a 7-conductor wire will support 6 valves.
• Consider a “One-Wire” network. One-wire is a low voltage (and low price) system of sensors that has many uses, and integrates with several automation and weather packages. Cat-5E works nicely for One-wire networks. Some of the current sensor available are;
  • Temperature
  • Humidity
  • ID card
  • Weather
    • Wind speed
    • Wind direction
    • Rainfall
    • Solar radiation
    • Lightning detection
  • Water
  • LED displays

Links

If you made it this far, continue to Wiring Your New House 103 where we try to take a walk through the whole house and all wire needs.