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Does anybody know whether (unofficially) a Samsung Android phone with NFC can spoof a card and be "read" by the M1PR (Elk's proximity-card reader)? I know you can spoof *some* rfid cards (at least, if your phone's rooted and you aren't depending upon the official API to do it *grin*), but I...

I have a Brother 1/2" label maker, and an Epson WL-400. My first attempt at labeling involved the Ideal-brand cloth-like wire labels. They stick well, but offer no clues about route or purpose... at least, once you've lost the notebook that documented them. Attempt 2: print 1/2" labels...

Well, for the camera, I just said "fsck it", drilled a pair of 1/2" holes on opposite sides of the wall, pulled the power cord & cat5 through the wall, and put a huge, divided, 2-gang box inside the closet. HOWEVER... the Hubbell box is *exactly* what I want for the master bath (which currently...

In this specific case, I'm trying to come up with something better for my non-PoE Foscam PTZ camera. My original plan (and plan I'm probably stuck with) is to put a conventional double-gang half-LV/half-power box inside the closet on the other side of the wall, then drill a hole through the wall...

Does anybody make a single-gang variant of divided electrical boxes that provides an enclosed, code-compliant electrical box big enough for exactly one (proprietary) outlet that's ~2/3 the height of a "normal" single-gang box, with room for a pair of side-by-side LV keystones in the other third...

I'm helping a friend to plan his new bathroom lighting controls, and I'm running into a brick wall because the ideal controls don't seem to exist. Basically, his bathroom is going to have 6 can lights forming 3 zones (walk-in shower, above the sink & toilet, above the open area), as well as a...

I'm almost done rewiring my alarm system. The new wiring configuration shares almost no wires with the original. Back when I first bought the house, I wasn't able to run wires between the first and second floor, and between the front and rear of the first floor, so I just hijacked the house's...

I know that Elk officially says that GE 500-series detectors that aren't on its (tiny) list of certified smoke detectors aren't compatible with the M1, and that mixing different models isn't allowed...but is there any real engineering reason (as opposed to regulatory "anything not officially...

Thanks! I bought the step drill, and I'll be putting it to good use this afternoon :-) I've tried drilling in the past, but I used a bit from a set meant for drilling through wood and drywall (kind of like a half-dozen dedicated hole saws for 1/2" through 1-1/2" holes). The box's plastic melted...

My frustration at the moment is off the scale. I know what I want to buy, but can't find it *anywhere*. I ran a 3/4" and 1/2" conduit behind the kitchen cabinets (well, more like *through* them). The ends are poking out of the wall in the laundry room. Inside the wall, above them, are 4 more...

Siren (actually, it's a commodity 106dB Ademco sounder) --To ensure that an actual fire would wake me up. I've spent 20-40 minutes in semi-twilight not quite grasping the significance of my alarm clock. Speaker -- let me know which door just opened (if I'm home when someone enters), and to let...

This might seem like a silly question, but is there any straightforward way (using ElkRP) to configure the M1 to trigger output2 (siren) *only* when a smoke detector on Zone16 triggers a 'fire' alarm? Specifically, I don't want output2 to trigger the siren when the burglar alarm goes off. The...

Real landline, Android phone with short tones (sigh, would it kill Android/IOS/WinPho to do software DTMF instead of playing wav files? I think the Linux kernel even has built-in support for legacy-Adlib FM sound generation...)

(mods: feel free to delete this, or at least change the topic to "Phone menu flakiness") This post was originally about how X10 modules are assigned light IDs by the voice menu (it appears that G1 = 97, G2=98, and so on). However, I have a new problem... the M1G's phone module seems to be...

Do the new CFL-friendly ones have new SKU/part numbers, or did they decide to pull a "Linksys" and release a new line with different design and the same part number?

Where's the diode, and what pads is it soldered between? Are there any side-effects from cutting it, or does it affect ONLY current pulsing for local power control? You wouldn't happen to have a SR227 power outlet to check, would you? Those are the ones I already bought a few months ago in...

No, that's the problem. This IS an appliance module with relay. I cut the jumper that enables/disables local power toggling, and all it did was disable the actual power toggling function... the low-voltage power pulses every second or so keep happening. From what I've read, the oldest of old...

I have an X-10 appliance module (2-pin, DIP microcontroller inside) that I bought to switch the power for a Foscam IP camera (when my Elk M1 gets armed in 'away' mode, it sends an 'on' command via the x10 interface; when it's disarmed, it sends an 'off' command). The problem is, the module sends...

You're probably right. The "can-light trim" idea was mainly just exploratory brainstorming :D Actually, that's a good point... is there a chart somewhere that shows the real-world width and height of the BL-C111's view field at various distances from the lens? Or, at least, the results of...

One idea that I'm exploring would be to cut a hole in the ceiling the diameter of a can light, mount the bulk of the camera (ie, its base where the cables connect) upside-down above it, then clip a can-light trimpiece over it so only the spherical camera enclosure peeks below it. The catch is...