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I'm running 64-bit W7 Enterprise. I just added a few rules this morning - no problems at all.

Kelvin's right - even though there's no mention of the EtherPort being zigbee related you use the zigbee config utility to set it up. I sent a tech support email to find out - Paul responded with the goods even though it was a Sunday. The preliminary docs on the Brultech support page has the...

Exactly. If it were drawing too much current, you'd see voltage drops on the fan and cool circuits. I was wondering about the anticipation stuff. Have you verified that it's turned completely off? I don't know exactly how it behaves, but from the way the manual reads I could possibly see it...

It's a capacitor. That's all. It's doing simple power factor correction to balance out the inductive loads caused by most electronics/appliances. The thing is, the metering systems used by the pocos for home use don't care what the power factor is. They'll read the same regardless. Now for...

I have good news, and bad news. First the good: you shouldn't have a power issue. It appears both blue and green are doing a fine job of keeping the thermostat fed while the heat is on. And the bad: that means I haven't a clue about what's going wrong! :blink: I can only think of two...

Is that just red/white? What do red/green and red/blue do while heat is on? Jerry

Yah, you really need to find a way to check the voltages while it's hooked up and operating. Cool not working worries me, especially if it worked with the original thermostat. The wiring appears to be pretty straightforward (although I had a momentary freak-out at seeing blue being used for...

Your voltage when off is not out of line. It's just a 24V transformer, and just like any wallwart, it reads higher when there's little or no load. My system , for instance, is currently reading 28.5V no-load. I don't see it in the thread anywhere, but do you have cooling hooked up in addition...

Impressive, yes. But you know what would impress me even more? If it were actually possible to *BUY* some of this stuff! I like zwave, but I'm getting tired of hearing "available next quarter"... Jerry

<delurk> That would be me. Bruce is a bit too kind in his praise. :lol: The first device I made doesn't do video detection properly - it doesn't fire on a totally black screen. The second one works much better. It's a variant of the scheme Frank's using, except I got silly and used a...

I suspect that the traffic sensors are just more elaborate magnetometors. FWIW, my Cartell is buried on one side of my driveway and can pick up my riding mower on the opposite side. I have to disable certain events when I'm mowing the front field or I get a *lot* of emails... :) EDIT: Yup...

Personally, I'm a fan of these. Jerry

Port C will be fine - I was just curious mainly. When using an opto-isolator design, the port's allowable voltage is pretty much a non-issue. To the controller, an opto basically looks like a normally-open contact switch. The switch is closed when the monitored device is on. Methinks I should...

Looking at your zone controller pictures and combined with what we already know it looks like it would be trivially easy to monitor "heat/cool/off" mode along with separate heat and cool runtimes. Would take four channels of isolation. From your other pictures it appears that you are using...

Ah, Nevada. Nope, excess moisture is definitely not one of your problems. My garage, while attached, is not heated. So after the garage gets good and cold in the winter, you have condensation problems when warmer, rainy weather returns. Let's keep it in the post - maybe the info will help...

Just looked over your pictures. Wow. There's now an additional requirement - it has to look decent! One thing - do you just want to monitor heat? Or both heat and cool modes (which would let you determine 'off')? Or more? With the opto method, it's only a tiny step to add another channel...

Nifty idea! I had been mentally toying with the idea of an optical encoder, but yours has the advantage of knowing the correct position after a power failure. I just wonder how well that pot is sealed - my garage can get fairly damp in the spring. Well frap. It won't work on my doors - the...

Sorry about the delay, somehow I missed your reply... :lol: Anyway, it does look like you've found the correct points to monitor. But I wouldn't even think of trying to hook this to your Homevision without using some kind of isolation - that panel looks far too nice to risk taking it out with...

Don't worry about it - we all do it from time to time. Just how do you think I knew what you had done? :) That chart is pretty thorough - good job! But as much as I hate to say it, we need some more. You see, your picture makes thing a lot clearer. If terminals 11-19 on the controller...

Switch the voltmeter to AC and try again :) Oooh. That picture helps a lot. I'm betting the second column of terminals (10-19) is labled "System Selector Switch" under the wires. That goes directly to your selector switch. This just got a lot easier. Terminal 1 should be your return line...