Can Elk M1 be plugged into Elk power supply?

robolo

Active Member
I am about to revise my entire can wiring and trying to reduce as many wall warts as possible. Does the Elk M1 always need it's own separate 16.5v transformer or is there any wany to plug it into one of the Elk power supply products ?
 
The M1 input is 16.5 volts AC. Most of the ELK power products are 6, 12, or 24 volts DC. I would venture a guess that the CPU requires at least a 16.5 volt AC input source where it is converted to what the board needs for basic operation.
 
The M1 input is 16.5 volts AC. Most of the ELK power products are 6, 12, or 24 volts DC. I would venture a guess that the CPU requires at least a 16.5 volt AC input source where it is converted to what the board needs for basic operation.
That is sort of what I had suspected...not doable with one of the Elk power supplies.
 
In reality you can power the M1 from a separate DC power supply. Run 13 to 14 volts DC into the battery leads. Run a +13 volt wire from the +Battery input to one of the AC inputs so that the M1 will startup when the power switch is turned on.

I suggest using at least a 2 amp or larger power supply.
 
In reality you can power the M1 from a separate DC power supply.
Pays to be the chief engineer :D. So you lose a wall wart, but you gain a separate plug in power supply and either a UPS or a backup battery in case of power failure. Not sure it's worth it.
 
In reality you can power the M1 from a separate DC power supply. Run 13 to 14 volts DC into the battery leads. Run a +13 volt wire from the +Battery input to one of the AC inputs so that the M1 will startup when the power switch is turned on.

I suggest using at least a 2 amp or larger power supply.

Don't you need a diode in there someplace to prevent the M1 battery charging circuit from backfeeding into the external DC supply?
 
In reality you can power the M1 from a separate DC power supply.
Pays to be the chief engineer :D. So you lose a wall wart, but you gain a separate plug in power supply and either a UPS or a backup battery in case of power failure. Not sure it's worth it.

I have a 10 A 12 Vdc supply with battery backup that I can build into a 14" CAN. It could power my whole system easily (the M1, all of teh accessories including the ethernet, the routers and switches etc etc). It would be a lot cleaner install. I have thought about it but havent implemented it yet. I have everything it would take including about 6 8ah batteries so I really should do it if I can shed some of the non essential load in a blackout to make the batteries last longer. I prefer over 24 hours battery power and those 6 batteries would only last about 12 at teh 4 amps I would be pulling normal standby.

Other option is to put a deep cycle car battery on it.

Edit:

I just threw a UPS on my modem, router, switches etc for the heck of it. Kept forgeting to do that as a temp fix. Trying to measure how long actual use will be with that method.
 
In reality you can power the M1 from a separate DC power supply. Run 13 to 14 volts DC into the battery leads. Run a +13 volt wire from the +Battery input to one of the AC inputs so that the M1 will startup when the power switch is turned on.

I suggest using at least a 2 amp or larger power supply.

Don't you need a diode in there someplace to prevent the M1 battery charging circuit from backfeeding into the external DC supply?


I have powered an M1 off of a 12 vdc PS through the battery leads for weeks at a time. No problems at all. In fact most alarm panels are ok with that.
 
wont this cause the system to throw an AC falt?

Not if you follow Spanky's directions. It will see the voltage on both inputs and should behave normally. I would monitor the AC feeding the 12 Vdc power supply through a zone if I go that route.
 
Burglar alarm systems are normally wired following the NEC code article 725 (commonly called power limited circuits). Most burglar alarm system fall under article 725 section III (Class 2 and Class 3 circuits). These sections assume that the system is powered from a power supply which inherently limits the power output.

Look at your Elk "wall wart ". It has a label on it as follows: "Class 2 not wet, Class 3 wet". This is a requirement for a class 2 supply which means it essentially limits the power supply output to 8 amps.

To use article 725 wiring methods, your power supply must be Class 2 power limited. Using anything other than this would require other wiring methods covered in other articles. However, most alarms systems are installed using article 725 wiring and methods. Most burglar alarm wire is labeled CL2, CM or CL2/CM. If you use this wire you must follow article 725 and must have a power limited supply.

Just so you know.
 
Burglar alarm systems are normally wired following the NEC code article 725 (commonly called power limited circuits). Most burglar alarm system fall under article 725 section III (Class 2 and Class 3 circuits). These sections assume that the system is powered from a power supply which inherently limits the power output.

Look at your Elk "wall wart ". It has a label on it as follows: "Class 2 not wet, Class 3 wet". This is a requirement for a class 2 supply which means it essentially limits the power supply output to 8 amps.

To use article 725 wiring methods, your power supply must be Class 2 power limited. Using anything other than this would require other wiring methods covered in other articles. However, most alarms systems are installed using article 725 wiring and methods. Most burglar alarm wire is labeled CL2, CM or CL2/CM. If you use this wire you must follow article 725 and must have a power limited supply.

Just so you know.


Trust me I know the code. You can do what Spanky said and meet the code. The 10 A power supply is not power limited obviously but that is not an issue as the M1 has internal power limitation through the use of PTC's so all outputs are considered power limited. In addition any other periphal devices would need to be fed through a means of power limitation such as the ones ELK sells.

In addition most commercial panels are not powered by Class 2 or Power Limited Supplies. Wiring leaving the panel is in most cases power limited (a few exceptions) using similar internal power limitation methods. If not Class 1 wiring methods must be used.
 
What amazing responses... thanks to all. I think, in terms of a simple solutions, I will stick with the Elk M1 wall wart for the time being.
 
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