test continuity of B connector

A

amazander

Member
I started wiring Elk M1 and I bought B connector Elk 9022. I am using a plyer to crimp it. It should be OK but I would like to test continuity for each joint (as suggested by the product).

However, I am retrofitting the security system so I can not get both ends of the wire. Elk 9022 B cononector says in its doc that it has "built in test point" and I thought I can just test on the joint itself - but I can not figure out how. Can someone help?

Thanks.
 
amazander said:
I started wiring Elk M1 and I bought B connector Elk 9022. I am using a plyer to crimp it. It should be OK but I would like to test continuity for each joint (as suggested by the product).

However, I am retrofitting the security system so I can not get both ends of the wire. Elk 9022 B cononector says in its doc that it has "built in test point" and I thought I can just test on the joint itself - but I can not figure out how. Can someone help?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The test point is on the end opposite where the wires enter. It is not for testing the connection continuity, but for testing for voltage or for testing continuity to another point. I have never had a bad connection in a B-connector as long as the wires are properly stripped and the connector is properly crimped. Always pull on each wire after the crimp. If the wire is tight, the connection will be good.
 
B Connectors were actually designed to be a no strip connection for their rated cable sizes. I have had connections (made by others that typically work with wire nuts for a living) that have had problems when the wires were stripped and others that have not had problems when the wires were not stripped. I typically use the flat of my needle nose pliers to flatten the connector because it evenly applies pressure across the whole width of the crimp. I also always strip the wires back for good measure. Usually when I come across a bad connection it is because someone crimped it with a butt splice crimp point on the multi tool. The center point of the crimp almost penetrates through the other side of the B connector. Not a good sign...

As said above, test your connections by giving them a slight tug. If you know the copper made it into the connector and it doesn't pull out, you will be fine.
 
Test points on the connectors can be either on the opposite end of the crimp (open side) or via the wire port if sharp and pointy test leads are used.

The problems I've run across are similar to Gatchel's, however I've found that flattening them out completely to be almost as bad as crimping them with the uninsulated nest or W crimp on a crimping plier, which is what I believe he's referring to, rather than the more oval crimp nest of an insulated terminal crimper. Personally, I use a Thomas & Betts 112M and the insulated crimp nest, and have for the last 15 years daily.

However, B connectors (chicklets) are/were not designed to be crimped flat, contrary to popular belief. I've seen more conductor damage done this way, same as those that were "crimped" by a pair of dykes by just bearing down on them, however this could be considered as splitting hairs, as most splices are not subjected to harsh enviroments that commonly causes failures.

History lesson below:

Bell designed the terminals, as stated, to allow a no-strip connection on solid conductors of like sizes and not exceeding really more than 2 or 3 conductors, which need to lay flat and side by side within the connector. When performed properly, the connection is gas tight and was tested to equal a soldered joint, like todays UR, UY, and UG connectors, which replaced B-connectors (chicklets). Contrary to popular belief, they were not phased out due to failures, more of a supplier political item, as 3-M made U style (scotchloks) connectors at a nice price for Bell, as well as too many techs not using the proper tools to install them.

There is a proper tool, actually called a presser, that is designed to properly crimp them and is still made by a company called GMP. I own 2 Bell system units, one from the 1950's and one from the 1960's and a bag of original Bell system chicklets. The tool has a calibration slot where a piece of "crimped" solder is run through as a go/no go test to see if the connection is undercrimped or not.

The same problems exist with Scotchloks as chicklets, which is improper crimping with the incorrect tool(s).
 
thanks guys. Just finished my installation today - all good - I have not had a single failure. I did not test it at all, just follow you guys instruction - tug a little - and these things really work well.

Now my next step is to contact ArmRelay to get the monitoring going. I also need a couple more 5800Micra to protect all doors, and a couple more wireless motion detector...
 
I'd test run your system for at least a month before starting monitoring.
OR instruct the monitoring company not to call the police.
 
So it seems I broke every rule with my beanies....
-stripped the wire (did use stranded though)
-twisted together
-used linemans pliers to crimp the whole thing flat

...Been over a year with no failures though.....yet. I'm OCD enough to redo them all if only they weren't behind the window casing molding.
 
DELInstallations said:
Test points on the connectors can be either on the opposite end of the crimp (open side) or via the wire port if sharp and pointy test leads are used.

The problems I've run across are similar to Gatchel's, however I've found that flattening them out completely to be almost as bad as crimping them with the uninsulated nest or W crimp on a crimping plier, which is what I believe he's referring to, rather than the more oval crimp nest of an insulated terminal crimper. Personally, I use a Thomas & Betts 112M and the insulated crimp nest, and have for the last 15 years daily.

However, B connectors (chicklets) are/were not designed to be crimped flat, contrary to popular belief. I've seen more conductor damage done this way, same as those that were "crimped" by a pair of dykes by just bearing down on them, however this could be considered as splitting hairs, as most splices are not subjected to harsh enviroments that commonly causes failures.

History lesson below:

Bell designed the terminals, as stated, to allow a no-strip connection on solid conductors of like sizes and not exceeding really more than 2 or 3 conductors, which need to lay flat and side by side within the connector. When performed properly, the connection is gas tight and was tested to equal a soldered joint, like todays UR, UY, and UG connectors, which replaced B-connectors (chicklets). Contrary to popular belief, they were not phased out due to failures, more of a supplier political item, as 3-M made U style (scotchloks) connectors at a nice price for Bell, as well as too many techs not using the proper tools to install them.

There is a proper tool, actually called a presser, that is designed to properly crimp them and is still made by a company called GMP. I own 2 Bell system units, one from the 1950's and one from the 1960's and a bag of original Bell system chicklets. The tool has a calibration slot where a piece of "crimped" solder is run through as a go/no go test to see if the connection is undercrimped or not.

The same problems exist with Scotchloks as chicklets, which is improper crimping with the incorrect tool(s).
Click to expand...

Wow, very informative. Had I seen your post before I would not buy the ELk B connector at all ;-) as they are retired (no matter what the reason :) - what is the difference among UY, UR, UG though?

Appreciate all these info - well worth the reading.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Aegis 1500 Woes
Replies
1
Views
851
pete_c
pete_c
L
Elk health, UPB/SA health, State of DIY HA - rambling questions
2 3
Replies
42
Views
3K
pete_c
pete_c
pete_c
Why Asimov's Three Laws Of Robotics Can't Protect Us
Replies
11
Views
1K
pete_c
pete_c
penright
Hello From Tuttle, OK
Replies
5
Views
4K
pete_c
pete_c
pete_c
Who / What done it? Why?
2
Replies
26
Views
14K
pete_c
pete_c
Back
Top