M1XIN->DBH Woes

Ok, I feel like this one's super basic, but I have a problem with any zone connected to the XIN. I followed the directions hooking up the XIN to the DBH via the instructions (found the one on smarthome... the one that came with it didn't have anything about the DBH). I was able to enroll the expander, set the dip switches for '2', and enable zone 17 as normal by all of the other zones. When I check the KP2, it shows zone17 as violated (with a question mark next to it... all other violated zones have '+' next to it.

To troubleshoot, I have tried:

1. A new cable from the DBH to the XIN (though both stranded patch cables, haven't tried a solid one)
2. Placing a jumper on JP3 on the main board.
3. Setting the termination jumper on the XIN to off.
4. Verified that the zone works by moving the wiring for that zone to the main board.

Any thoughts? Any help to retain my hairline is much appreciated.

Steve

What pattern is the LED flashing on the XIN?

What is plugged in to each port on the DBH?

About one per second.

I have one kp2 in port 1 the xin in port 2, and the terminating plug in 3. At one point I had two other keypads in 2 and 3, but removes them until I could do the install for them

daxiang28 said:

Ok, I feel like this one's super basic, but I have a problem with any zone connected to the XIN. I followed the directions hooking up the XIN to the DBH via the instructions (found the one on smarthome... the one that came with it didn't have anything about the DBH). I was able to enroll the expander, set the dip switches for '2', and enable zone 17 as normal by all of the other zones. When I check the KP2, it shows zone17 as violated (with a question mark next to it... all other violated zones have '+' next to it.

To troubleshoot, I have tried:

1. A new cable from the DBH to the XIN (though both stranded patch cables, haven't tried a solid one)
2. Placing a jumper on JP3 on the main board.
3. Setting the termination jumper on the XIN to off.
4. Verified that the zone works by moving the wiring for that zone to the main board.

Any thoughts? Any help to retain my hairline is much appreciated.

Steve

Click to expand...

Is the LED blinking about 5 times quickly (1 per second or so) and then stopping for a short time, then repeating? From what you said it sounds like you did the enrollment before setting the switch to 2. The LED should blink only about once every 3 seconds if it is truly enrolled. And the question mark indicates the M1XIN hasn't checked at all to report status from the zone.

Try performing the enrollment again.

are you testing this by powering up the M1G (and expander) and then trying it?

I've had trouble for up to 3-4 minutes with the XIN showing all zones violated after a system restart. Most times it is only a minute or so, but sometimes much longer.

You need exactly two terminated chains on the data bus. One will be everything on the DBH, and you should have all the RJ45's filled up to the terminator plug. No device you hook into the DBH should be terminated itself (e.g. no keypad or other device plugged into the DBH should have its terminator jumper installed).

Then with the DBH terminated only with the special RJ45 connector, you should have exactly one other chain terminated, which could be "no" chain by terminated it on the M1G board, or maybe another keypad hooked up to the four screens with then that keypad being terminated.

Exactly two, not one, not three terminators, counting the special jack.

Also, be sure to look carefully at the patch cable. If you bought one, cut it and used the loose end to connect to the XIN, it may not work -- it's the older (obsolete) "A" wiring color code. If you make your own adding the connector, be sure to follow the colors. If you buy a patch cord and cut it, you are almost certainly going to have to swap colors to make it work. The colors in the instructions are correct, they just won't match most modern patch cable wiring inside the connector.

One blink per second means that it is online and is normal. (The circuit board say's OK). If it was not enrolled it would blink 3 times then pause and repeat.

It sounds like something isn't right in the programming if you know the zone works on the panel directly.

In RP, what are your settings for the zone 17?

So I guess the solution comes down to... patience. Thanks everyone for the help. It turns out that Linwood was correct and that it does take a couple minutes for the XIN to be recognized. I find this a little odd, but it seems to be working now. This makes me hesitate putting motions and other priority zones in the expanders. Anybody have any experience in latency from these expanders?

Also, I noticed that most of the Elk documentation is referring to the 568A wiring. I've found that they usually group the swapped pairs in the 568A and 568B anyway, negating any conflicts with wiring choice (grouping orange/white+green/white and green+orange).

Steve

ray: Linwood...Good find.


I have seen about a minute on my home M1 but never 3 or 4 minutes. Seems kind of odd. Have you ever checked your data bus error counter from a keypad by chance to see if it is incrementing?

I'm just doing the basic debugging/checking after I wire a zone. I have yet to get to the logging or remote stuff yet as the network hasn't been setup. I'm waiting to get to a point where I can post some pics that I'm proud of.

Steve

daxiang28 said:

I'm just doing the basic debugging/checking after I wire a zone. I have yet to get to the logging or remote stuff yet as the network hasn't been setup. I'm waiting to get to a point where I can post some pics that I'm proud of.

Steve

Click to expand...

You can check it right from the keypad.Menu 8-system settings(enter code), then menu 6-system diag, then menu 1-Data Bus Errors. If the end number increases avery few seconds, there are errors occurring. If it doesn't change after 30 seconds or so then you are probably good to go.

Don't let the longer startup time worry you; once the system is up, provided it has sufficient battery, it really should never go off unless you turn it off. The XIN zones respond very quickly and you won't have any issues.

That said, I do prefer keeping life-safety devices onboard, such as smokes; then any analog devices, then doors (I automate a lot of things based on doors opening) - until you run out and overflow to the expanders.

Work2Play said:

Don't let the longer startup time worry you; once the system is up, provided it has sufficient battery, it really should never go off unless you turn it off. The XIN zones respond very quickly and you won't have any issues.

That said, I do prefer keeping life-safety devices onboard, such as smokes; then any analog devices, then doors (I automate a lot of things based on doors opening) - until you run out and overflow to the expanders.

Click to expand...

Thanks @Work2Play! I think I will restructure a bit to give me some more room on the main board.

Steve

I agree with Work2Play. I have one fire zone and one temerpature zone on the M1 main board. I don't like wiring things twice...

daxiang28 said:

Also, I noticed that most of the Elk documentation is referring to the 568A wiring. I've found that they usually group the swapped pairs in the 568A and 568B anyway, negating any conflicts with wiring choice (grouping orange/white+green/white and green+orange).

Click to expand...

Sorry, Steve, my mistake, I never compared the colors, just noticed it was the older standard. Nice that they made it work either way. I really like that mechanism of hooking them up though, it is so much nicer than daisy chain. I had about 7 things to hook up by the time I was done (zone expander, power supply, RF, Ethernet, keypad, UPB serial, regular serial for Uplink), and the cabling is a lot neater than it would have been otherwise.

Glad you found your issue. I confess I never timed the startup time of mine, it seemed like several minutes as I kept running back and forth between keypad and panel to check wiring, etc.

But I have zero issues once up, so I did not worry about it further. Like Work2Play above, I put my fire zones on the main board just in case, but once I'm done working on the wiring I hope to almost never have to restart it. All the inter-device communication has been fine.