What contacts to main board, what contacts to zone expander?

chrisexv6 · Jan 22, 2012

I have over 16 zones (basically 1 contact = 1 zone, just because thats how I want it), so Ill need a zone expander for my M1G. My question is what should be connected to the zone expander vs the main board, assuming the response time on the zone expander is slower.

16 zones is a lot, but between doors and windows alone I have 13. Add in 3 or 4 motions and 3 or 4 glassbreaks and Im over 16.

Does the zone expander introduce lag time for contact status? Is it so little that it doesnt really make a difference?

tmbrown97 · Jan 22, 2012

There's minor differences; For example, Zone 16 is the only place that 2-wire smokes can go, and the first 16 zones are the only ones that can be used for analog inputs (without modification); otherwise for doors/windows you won't notice any difference.

Edit: Temperature sensors count as analog and can only be on the first 16 zones

Del91574 · Jan 22, 2012

With the 485 bus, you won't see any lag in response. Milliseconds. Even on the larger systems I've put in and my own house (64 zones) the lag is not easily viewed, even when watching zone voltage responses. The largest I put in had 10 expanders and 4 212S's on the bus and the propagation wasn't noticed, even on remote 485 in detached buildings.

Only thing is what was mentioned regarding the 2 wire fire and ZTS'.

DotNetDog · Jan 23, 2012

Don't worry about any lag time. I just installed [most] of my M1G system and I'm just starting the fun part...configuring it. Anyway, I currently have 6 zone expanders will will need 3 more over the next few months. I have 29 door sensors, 19 window sensors, 10 glass break sensors, 5 temperature sensors, 47 occupancy sensors (wired for but not purchased yet) and 23 water leak detectors.

I use UPB lighting and have the Elk PCSPIM installed. I have a rule that turns on my closet light at night whenever the door opens. The light comes on very quickly...no annoying lag time.

chrisexv6 · Jan 23, 2012

DotNetDog said:
Don't worry about any lag time. I just installed [most] of my M1G system and I'm just starting the fun part...configuring it. Anyway, I currently have 6 zone expanders will will need 3 more over the next few months. I have 29 door sensors, 19 window sensors, 10 glass break sensors, 5 temperature sensors, 47 occupancy sensors (wired for but not purchased yet) and 23 water leak detectors.

I use UPB lighting and have the Elk PCSPIM installed. I have a rule that turns on my closet light at night whenever the door opens. The light comes on very quickly...no annoying lag time.

If you dont mind my asking, is this a single residence? If so, is it large?

Friends are telling me Im overkilling my install by using contacts on each window with glassbreaks and motions as a backup........and Im not coming anywhere near the total amount of sensors you have.

DotNetDog · Jan 23, 2012

It's not all that large...about 6500 sq ft. I just had the opportunity on this house (built last year) to go overboard...so I did! :nutz:

I've hears stories about predators acting like painters and using ladders around the back of the house to enter the master bedroom windows. Since 2nd floor windows are usually not wired it sounded feasible. Also, I've had two water leaks in my previous house and I know two close friends that had water leaks. I consider the leak detectors to be critical.

Also, some of my security wiring was to offer "piece of mind" to my mother-in-law who just moved in with us. Between all these security sensors and 3 dogs, I hope she feels safe!

Oh, the interior door sensors and the occupancy sensors are for automation purposes (not security).

apostolakisl · Jan 23, 2012

DotNetDog said:
It's not all that large...about 6500 sq ft. I just had the opportunity on this house (built last year) to go overboard...so I did! :nutz:

I've hears stories about predators acting like painters and using ladders around the back of the house to enter the master bedroom windows. Since 2nd floor windows are usually not wired it sounded feasible. Also, I've had two water leaks in my previous house and I know two close friends that had water leaks. I consider the leak detectors to be critical.

Also, some of my security wiring was to offer "piece of mind" to my mother-in-law who just moved in with us. Between all these security sensors and 3 dogs, I hope she feels safe!

Oh, the interior door sensors and the occupancy sensors are for automation purposes (not security).

I have the same size house and have similarly protected with all windows, all doors, motions, water detectors, and so forth. However, I didn't run every sinlge thing on its own zone. I have 2 zone expander boards. True, I can't pinpoint a leak to the exact sink, but I do know roughly where to look. I don't know which window in a bedroom is open, but I know which bedroom to go look in.

I don't know what kind of delay would be trouble for you. But from the standpoint of normal alarm system stuff, there is no delay at all. It is milliseconds. Typically you program your alarm to have a delay anyway so as to avoid thunder and other vibrations from tripping an alarm.

paw500 · Jan 24, 2012

I'll just add that if you install zone expanders or any other bus device in a remote sub-panel can, be sure to adhere to the bus specifications in terms of bus wiring distance, termination, isolation, gauge… so that the integrity and performance of the bus (which is the communicating backbone of the complete system) is not compromised.
Otherwise it won't matter on which zone input you wire your burglary contacts.
Some people like to keep the main M1G board as "clean and isolated" as possible and use only zone expanders to hook up all or as many contacts/initiating devices as possible. Others may choose to wire directly to the M1G those zone sensors which they consider "mission-critical" (i.e. life safety), so as to avoid the possibility of a zone expander failure or bus fault.

chrisexv6 · Jan 25, 2012

sixspeedmanual said:
I'll just add that if you install zone expanders or any other bus device in a remote sub-panel can, be sure to adhere to the bus specifications in terms of bus wiring distance, termination, isolation, gauge… so that the integrity and performance of the bus (which is the communicating backbone of the complete system) is not compromised.
Otherwise it won't matter on which zone input you wire your burglary contacts.
Some people like to keep the main M1G board as "clean and isolated" as possible and use only zone expanders to hook up all or as many contacts/initiating devices as possible. Others may choose to wire directly to the M1G those zone sensors which they consider "mission-critical" (i.e. life safety), so as to avoid the possibility of a zone expander failure or bus fault.

Yeah, that was my plan....primary ("hard" contacts [i.e. reed switches]) right to the main board, some secondary (glassbreaks) to the main board, then the rest of the glassbreaks, all the motions and the non-alarm zones to the zone expander.

Everything is wired to one place so the zone expander wont be offboard from the main can. The only thing remote from the can will be an XSP (for the Uplink unit), 2 keypads and possibly an arming station or two. Longest single databus run is probably 30-40 feet if even that far.

Dale02 · Jan 30, 2012

I placed the fires ( 4-wire) on the main board. That way if one of the input expansion unit fails, I will still have fire warning without having to re-wire all the contacts.

What contacts to main board, what contacts to zone expander?

chrisexv6

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tmbrown97

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