Glass Breaks with Curtains and Other ?s

I've yet to install my newly purchased M1, but am looking to add to the system with glass break detectors and have read plenty about the issue with curtains. I'm in a ranch house so that means bedrooms are on the main level.

1. What can I do with the rooms that have thick curtains which are usually drawn? Are there any sensors that I can flush mount in the jamb?

2. I have an 20x13 LR with a 15' header to a 15x13 dining room. The 13' that is common to both rooms is the depth (front and back of house) so the LR windows are on the 20' with the dining on the 15' wall. Both room's windows have curtains or custom recessed verticals. Is it even possible for a single detector to cover both rooms?

3. Since there are bedrooms on the main level I'm assuming I would want each room to have it's own for when the doors may be closed or could I use 1 sensor in the hallway where 2 of the room's doors are 90*, but next to each other (straight end of hallway is one door with the other at the end to the right.)

4. I have approx. 1' of space between the top of my kitchen cabinets and the ceiling. Can I place a sensor on top of the cabinets so it's hidden?

Thanks for the help!

Heavy curtains are a big problem in regards to acoustic glass break detectors. If you don't have a clear path from window to detector you run a big risk of not detecting the broken glass.

1. I know that Flexguard and GE both have a small round detector (hard wired) that can be mounted in a jamb. You drill a 1" hole. fish your wire and slide it in.

2. With curtains, I personally wouldn't try to cover both rooms with one detector, I think a detector as close as possible to each set of windows to be best.

3. Use a detector in each room.

4. I think it would work if you had a clear site line to the windows.

Most acoustic glass break detectors have a testing tool available to test different scenarios. The problems are that each brand has their own proprietary tester, so you need to decide on a brand to use and stick with it and they are also pricey and not always easily available.

Hope I was some help, glass breaks are finicky devices and sometimes the only way to know if they will work in certain situations is to buy one and a tester and try it out.

russban said:

1. I know that Flexguard and GE both have a small round detector (hard wired) that can be mounted in a jamb. You drill a 1" hole. fish your wire and slide it in.

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I looked up AO and they have the 5820A which specs a min. of 3.3' to the glass. Assuming someone would break only the lower section I suppose I can test it mounted in the top jamb (though it would be close.) The problematic windows with curtains would be doubled up 84" wide windows.
Any that spec closer?
Further, these are full length curtains that "pool" on the floor.

4. I think it would work if you had a clear site line to the windows.

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If the top of the cabinets have crown molding, I guess that would mean no to having a clear site?

Hope I was some help

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Every post is helpful for a noob

I came across these 1" flush mounts from Ademco (FG1625RFM) that state no minimum distance.

Has anyone installed a glass break either on or in the jamb before?
Another option...has anyone secured one to the rod behind behind the valance?

I have an Ademco 1625 Flush mount glass break installed. Generally, a glass break can only cover one room. I had to play around with the positioning for several hours to find best place to drill hole in wall and run wire up from crawl space. I purchased the sound emulator. At least in Ademco 1625, they do not recommend installing on same wall containing glass. The detector in my experience works best at a 90 degree angles from glass being monitored. Also, you should not mount the sensor near any doors.

I dare say the glass break has caused the most false alarms - even though the Ademco is supposed to be a dual sound glass break. I had to change the zone setting from 24hr burglar to inside perimeter to minimize false positive risks.

Also remember a glass break detector is just one line of defense. You should also have a motion detector and sensors on the windows don't hurt either. Once you have multiple sensors you then can enable false-alarm prevention measures like setting your panel to require TWO sensors to trip within a set period of time to trigger an alarm. I also have had several false alarms with glass breakage detectors, so I use them combined with other detectors to trigger the alarm. Your goal should be add as many sensors as practical but also avoid false alarms. You don't need EVERY sensor to independently trigger the alarm, you only need to trigger the alarm when someone is REALLY a threat, and with multiple layers of protection, someone will not get by that.

That is true and I was concerned with false alarms from the glass sensors really only because I have cats so there is the possibility of them knocking something over. What else would be falsing the glass breaks?

Cross-zoning was something I was looking into, again because of the cats and motions, but I was leaning towards not using motions at all. Instead I was looking into the pulsors by Sure Action. Anyone care to comment about them?

Also, I have some 1625's and the simulator coming so I'll play around with that.

I am not impressed with the glass breaks 'pattern recognition' either. I have had many go off because of tv noises, something dropping on a wood or tile floor, kitchen activity, etc. I originally wanted them setup as 24 hour zones so it would detect an intruder even if I were home with alarm off but its not worth the hassle. I changed all the glass breaks to interior zones just like the PIRs so they will only alarm when the alarm is set.

I remember something in my GE ShatterPro's instructions specifically saying that you can't rely on them for 24-hour protection; it's just too easy for a false alarm in day to day living.

I personally still think the ultimate solution for window protection is Security screens. They have to be custom made for your windows at about $50-$75/each... but they're the ultimate early warning system. If someone removes the screen, it sets off; if someone cuts the screen, it sets off. Your best bet is always to catch the intruder before they even make it inside; preferably before they've even broken a window.

Added bonus is that you can leave your windows open during the right times of the year and still be completely protected.

Thanks for the info, but I should point out that I was not going to set them up as a 24hr zone, but either a night or night instant zone. That way, they will only alarm when away or we're in bed. When I asked about falsing I should have specified that I'm not looking for 24hr. protection so that is why I couldn't think of anything to set them off. However, sometimes the HVAC return will give a good "whirling" and vibration sound, could that do it?

Also, I have an M1, is it possible to have them set for instant alarm when away, but delay when home?


Work2Play-
I've heard of the security screens before, but haven't seen prices. Are there any online stores you know of or can recommend? This may be a better route than dealing with pulsors.

I completely agree with keeping the intruder outside. I also ordered security cameras with a DVR and will look to add motion triggered flood lights around the entire perimeter...even though most burglaries happen during the day! In any case, I want to make my house a deterent just by looking at it. There have been a rise in break-ins lately (someone new just weeks after a bunch were caught too!) and most are during the day with a rock through the back slider. I have 2 small children and a wife who I know won't be able to sleep if it happened to us.

I personally don't know of anyone online - I did do some google searches and came up with results in the past - but I try to keep a good relationship with the security guys - I have a few I deal with, and they all know someone who custom makes them when a customer wants them. There were also a couple places in Florida I believe you could order from.

I hope to find some down the road - I have too many overwhelming priorities at the moment.

If you search the forums you'll find that I've recommended these screens several times and am a proponent of them. I have had them on my windows for 18 years now. In fact, I need to have many of them replaced. I good source is THIS place. They are actually located near me and have talked to them before (I've worked with Ryan). It's likely where I will get mine redone. The other option, which is much easier when you are just building, it to use hurricane glass, even outside of hurricane zones. Most of the better ones are burglar proof and much better insulated. The screen do give you the benefit of ventilation though. We just had a breaking in the neighborhood where a guy left his window open for ventilation with one of those cheap thumbscrew locks and the perps just pried the window all the way open and had their way.

I think the Ademco 1625 glass breaks are pretty sound alarm product. In all the cases that have set off glass break (false alarm), there was only one questionable incident where I was trying to test the glass break by clapping my hands immediately in front of detector. This seemed somewhat questionable because a hand claps does not produce the timed two “note” sounds required to trigger dual-tech GB. The detector worked correctly during lighting/thunder storms which was my biggest concern.

Keys accidentally dropping are the biggest problem.

I changed from 24hr. to interior perimeter – mostly because of my maid.

Steve said:

I good source is THIS place.

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Thanks, Steve. That is actually the one place I bookmarked when I did a search yesterday.

OK, so I installed my Honeywell FG-1625RFM glass breaks, but I'm not sure what is the best practice for setting the sensitivity. For the most part the sensors are installed in the ceiling, right next to the opposite wall to the window. This is 13-14' from the bottom of the window. The 2 sensitivity settings I would chose would be 15' (3rd highest) or 25' (maximum.) Considering these will NOT be run as a 24hr. zone, which should I go with? Stick with the highest setting or is there any possible flaw to this thought due to the design of the sensor?