Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Hey there! While you are enjoying browsing the site, why not take a few seconds to register for an even better experience! It's absolutely free and a painfree process!
Here are some of the benefits of registering: Registering is so easy and quick, we don't even require you to deal with those annoying CAPTCHA graphics! Register Now!
2 Pages V  < 1 2  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> M1G wireless installation advice
Steve
post Nov 27 2009, 08:32 PM
Post #16


Cocoonut
****

Group: Registered
Posts: 3516
Joined: 08.06.05
From: South Fla
Member No.: 884



Cat6 is a huge waste of money and a PITA to use for security. It's great for all you other data, etc stuff but for alarm sensors (contacts, PIRs and GB's) 22/2 or 22/4 is all you need and all you will ever need. Phone cable will work but you may find 22/4 cheaper or can get it in different colors if you want. If I misinterpreted this I apologize but it sounded like Cat6 was being recommended for everything including security.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
signal15
post Nov 28 2009, 01:41 AM
Post #17


Advanced Cocooner
***

Group: Registered
Posts: 798
Joined: 06.07.09
Member No.: 6317



QUOTE (Steve @ Nov 27 2009, 07:32 PM) *
Cat6 is a huge waste of money and a PITA to use for security. It's great for all you other data, etc stuff but for alarm sensors (contacts, PIRs and GB's) 22/2 or 22/4 is all you need and all you will ever need. Phone cable will work but you may find 22/4 cheaper or can get it in different colors if you want. If I misinterpreted this I apologize but it sounded like Cat6 was being recommended for everything including security.


I disagree. Cat6 is only a waste of money if you think what you are installing is going to be there for the next 20 years, and technology won't advance. If you're running the wire, run something that is going to be future-proof for the foreseeable future. Or, run your 22/4, and then run Cat6 along side it so it's there. If you're running it in a new house or a house that is partially finished, this is the only chance you'll get.

I ran all Cat6. For everything. I think it's better to work with because I punched it all down on a 110 block rather than running it directly into my panel, and then cross connected the 110 block terminals to where they need to go. It's flexible, and I never have to worry about accidentally cutting too much off a wire I'm messing with. Really clean wiring also. I did not find Cat6 to be a PITA to work with at all.

A single run gives you 4 pairs. In most of my locations, I'm only using 1 or 2 pairs. But if I need to add anything, it's there. If some super awesome ethernet based sensors come out, I'm wired for it. If I need to put an RS-485 expansion module somewhere else, I'm wired for it. Cat6 was $72 for 1000 feet back in June. Now it's just over $90. I don't know what 22/4 costs, but I ran a LOT of wire for security/HA, and I used about 3000 feet of wire. $270 is a pittance compared to the amount of time you'll waste having to run more wire in the future.

Then again, if you care about code, or UL listed installation, you might not be able to use Cat6 for an alarm. But, I don't care about that, so I didn't even bother to check the regs.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
d.dennerline
post Nov 29 2009, 01:03 AM
Post #18


Cocooner
**

Group: Registered
Posts: 57
Joined: 06.30.09
From: Georgia
Member No.: 6449



Thanks for feedback.
I wanted the magnetic sensors installed towards the top of the lock-side of door.

I did pop the molding off. For all of my doors the spacing between framing and jamb varied between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch. I did consider using the space between frame and door jamb to run 22/2 wire. Ultimate the inconsistent spacing made this difficult. I also considered placing the magnet on the bottom of door, but I was somewhat concerned because my porch does not have any protection and doorway entry frequently receives splashes of water.

I decided to go through the extra hassle. With house built on crawlspace, I opted to use a technique that I read about on Internet. I pulled away the quarter-round, used a 1/8 inch extra long drill bit, drilled at edge of hardwoods (for 2-of-3 doors the hardwood did not touch the wall, so I did not technically drill into wood floor) into crawlspace, changed locations and moved into crawlspace underneath drill bit, found the 1/8 drill bit, used a 3/4 inch short stubby spade bit, and drilled back up into wall cavity. I used the Magnepull to pull wire up to hole-saw location. I used a 14 inch ground wire from door side as a pull-stick for pulling wire from hole-saw back into door.

This post has been edited by d.dennerline: Nov 29 2009, 01:06 AM
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
cornutt
post Nov 29 2009, 10:34 AM
Post #19


Advanced Cocooner
***

Group: Registered
Posts: 236
Joined: 01.01.09
Member No.: 5399



QUOTE (signal15 @ Nov 21 2009, 01:21 AM) *
DO NOT forget to put sensors on your upper levels. Most people never do this, and it can be a very common entry point because of it. There are also sensors called pulsor sensors that detect the flex in a deck or roof truss. Depending on the architecture of your house, it might be worth looking into.


Interesting; I'd never heard of those. I wonder how they prevent falsing due to wind and storms.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post

2 Pages V  < 1 2
Reply to this topicStart new topic

1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Add to Google Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 10th September 2010 - 06:52 AM