Cheapest means to control a 20 amp load?

My wood workshop is coming together, but I'm suddenly stymied. I have built a closet for my dust collector to go into so that it would not be such a noise maker in the work area. But I needed some easy way to control it as well so that it'd be trivial to turn it on.

My plan was to use a spare OnQ ALC relay control switch to switch the outlet that the DC was plugged into. Since I could control the relay via some simple momentary contact switches, that means I could easily wire several switches throughout the shop so that you were never more than a step or 2 away from being able to turn the D.C. on.

Well, unfortunately, I discovered that the dust collector is actually rated for 16 amps. Since the ALC switch is 15 amp rated, I do not feel good about going that route now.

So I'm still looking for the cheapest, easiest solution that will let me switch the dust collector on and off.

I found this X10 switch for a 20 amp load. But I have no X10, so I have no idea what's involved in making it work (do I need a separate controller for that?). I'm not looking for automated/PC control...just simple closed contact control.

I'm trying to keep it all below $60, because otherwise I'll just get one of the remote control outlets that are made for this. Besides the cost, I really don't want something with a wireless remote because I *KNOW* I'll be hunting around the shop for that in less than a day.

Any suggestions help, thanks.

It sounds like you don't necessarily want automation, which makes this simple. Home Depot (and I'm sure other outlets) carries a Leviton 20 Amp 4-Way switch. I can't post the link, so here's the specs from their site.

Replaces any 15A or 20A 4-way switch
Controls light(s) from three locations
One 4-way switch must be used with two 3-way switches in a 4-way circuit
Back and side wired
MFG Brand Name : Leviton
MFG Model # : R62-0CSB4-2WS
MFG Part # : R62-0CSB4-2WS

Price $9.99

Hope it helps.

How about using the ALC to control a higher powered relay, such as this?
http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-...ation/power.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-NIB-FUNCTIONAL-DEVIC...=item51916ae72a

I would use a contactor (large relay) rated for the load and use a 24vac contol circuit to turn on and off the contactor coil. (essentially the same as the wireless device with out the remote.)

This way you can easliy control the dust collector from any number of locations with a simple toggle switch. You could also automate it in the future with a dry contact from any source if needed. You would need a contactor, a 24vac transformer, and some toggle switches. You could even use standard 120v toggle switches if you wanted to. Since the control wiring is low voltage you could run a small guage wire (pair) to each toggle location.


OR

You could use the OnQ ALC relay as you mentioned above and just have it turn on the contactor via 120 coil. Same but different.


OR

You could get really crazy and install current transformers on all of the circuit feeds at the breaker panel that feed to dust collector needing devices and have the voltage output of the current transformers monitored so that when the device is turned on it would automatically turn the dust collector on using a contactor as mentioned above. I don't know if your system can monitor inputs in this fashion.


Edit:
WayneW...beat me to it.

That is definitely doable wadenut, and is certainly a good price...but that means wiring up several other switches around the shop that are all rated for 20 amp loads, right, since the power is going through every switch. I've already closed up the ceiling so no more running wire through there, plus all that extra 12/2 wire would be around $50 or so. I'd have to tack the wire to the ceiling which I'd rather not do. A good suggestion, but I'd rather just be able to run simple 22/4 wire everywhere I need to put a switch.

So wayne's suggestion is the same as gatchel's #2 right? That's kind of what I was wondering if I could do...use the 15 amp ALC relay to control a larger relay which then controls the actual load. I would be looking for a relay that is "normally open", right? So that if there is a power outage, when the power comes back on the dust collector won't just start up?

What are the other things to look for in a relay so I can make sure I get the right kind?

The ALC relay will end up with a switched hot coming out of it...is that how relays work? If I apply power to the 20 amp relay, it will stay closed, and if I remove power from it, it will open?

Assuming you have more the one device you should have a gate valve at each device. They make something to turn and off when you open the gate.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17...mp;filter=25779

Heh...well, I shouldn't expect any less when i come to an automation forum to ask about controlling this, but blast-gate controlled dust collecting is more than I'm looking to do at this point, though it does have some serious advantages. In fact, if i went the ALC route, I could see using magnetic reed switches attached to blast gates to control it instead of a momentary switch.

I already have a good amount of blast gates, they came with the DC. They're simple plastic, but they'll work.

gatchel's suggestion of monitoring the current to turn on the D.C. also has merit, as there are plugins you can buy that do exactly that. I'd rather have some more specific control of it than that.

I do like the blast gate idea because it solves a few problem:

1) Makes sure un-used blast gates are closed, so you don't have to walk around the shop to close them before using just the one you want.
2) Makes sure the D.C. doesn't come on when all blast gates are closed, which I think might not be a good thing for the D.C.

Ok, well the formula has changed a little bit. I'm shooting for a 30 amp load now. I took my kill-a-watt and plugged it into my dust collector and fired it up. the first reading was 20 amps and the next was 24 before it settled at 10 amps.

Sooo...how is this thing not tripping the breaker when it starts up?? I've got it plugged into a 20 amp circuit using an extension cord, and there are other devices on the circuit running. How does that startup amp draw not trip the breaker?

beelzerob said:

Ok, well the formula has changed a little bit. I'm shooting for a 30 amp load now. I took my kill-a-watt and plugged it into my dust collector and fired it up. the first reading was 20 amps and the next was 24 before it settled at 10 amps.

Sooo...how is this thing not tripping the breaker when it starts up?? I've got it plugged into a 20 amp circuit using an extension cord, and there are other devices on the circuit running. How does that startup amp draw not trip the breaker?

Click to expand...

Circuit breakers are made to handle a surge for a short period before tripping. That's why it doesn't trip at the 24 amp load... it's short term.

Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying that, it was stymying me. Even if CB's can handle the surge, I have to plan that my relays and wire don't I suppose.

So, taking the diagram for the functional devices RIB01P30 30 amp relay, and drawing in the connections Im thinking it needs, does that look correct? If so then this seems like a workable plan.

Oops...forgot the diagram

beelzerob said:

So, taking the diagram for the functional devices RIB01P30 30 amp relay, and drawing in the connections Im thinking it needs, does that look correct? If so then this seems like a workable plan.

Click to expand...

Yup, that looks right to me.

Excellent. The functional devices engineer I emailed concurs....good to have confirmation.

I'm asking him now if he has a 230v relay I can switch with the 110v switch. If I can go 230v I will just for the future proofing of it. My dust collector is on the low end of capability, and if it dies then I'll be undoubtedly upgrading. I'd hate to have to scrap the relay and everything when that happens.

beelzerob said:

I'm asking him now if he has a 230v relay I can switch with the 110v switch.

Click to expand...

You may have a little trouble finding that for 30A.
You could always daisy chain if/when you upgrade... the existing RIB01P30 would switch 230V to the new relay.
You could also look for a single 230V 30A relay with a 24VAC coil... then a 24VAC transformer (sprinklers, HVAC) to provide 24VAC into your ALC relay contacts.